Type: Sport, 600 ft (182 m), 7 pitches
FA: FA: Catrina Sisco
Page Views: 2,851 total · 44/month
Shared By: Rprops on Sep 6, 2019 · Updates
Admins: Luke EF, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


19 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: Partial closure due to flood damage DetailsDrop down

5.12a/b/c or 5.11 A0 Suggest change

A bolted adventure in view of the car.  This route takes the path of least resistance  to the top, with a sustained amount of 5.10 climbing with some interspersed 11-.  The crux pitch has been onsighted, and is easily french-freed, so if you climb 5.11, this route is totally in your wheelhouse.

P1. Spaced bolts and blocky. 2 bolt anchor all the way at the top of the ledge. 5.7 100' 5 bolts.

Shift left 20' to the other side of the tree.

P2.  Belay bolt.  This is a good pitch. Vertical, pumpy face climbing leads to a move left to a crack.  Up this until it ends, then face climbing right on great chert.  Ends with some sharp rock. (Ignore off route rap-anchor midpitch).  10-. 11 bolts. 100'

P3. The roof. Big holds on the bottom.  Short defined crux can be easily pulled through. Maybe 10+ before and after crux.  

10 bolts, b7 colored red for aid. B9 also only for aid.  5.12/5.10A0.  10 bolts. 50'

P4. A good pitch. Up then traverse right over rounded arete. Stay LOW on techy feet. Up the awkward corner.  Then move left-to-right across face to sidepull jugs. Run out feeling final section is heady, but only 10-.    70'  8 bolts. 5.11

P5. Straight up the corner.  A short easy section brings you to a vertical wall with a chossy looking wide crack. Not that chossy, with a wild final move to get back on low angle terrain. The last 30' has plenty of dirt. Extend 2nd last bolt or skip it. 115' 10 bolts. 5.10.

P6. Techy from start to finish.  STAY LEFT at the upper crux (avoid calcite crack out right). Great belay above.

10 bolts. 70'. 11a

P7. Sweet chert and stemming up a short pitch. Ignore unneeded bolt just right of the anchors. Could be combined w p6.  5 bolts. 60'. 5.9

Scramble to the top and look down upon the people on Cathedral who think they have a good view.

Rap the route until you get above the roof.  From here rap straight down to a dedicated rap station, then back to the top of pitch 1.

Location Suggest change

Maybe 70 yards before the 2nd bench the trail takes a hard right. Walk straight off the path into some deadfall and pick up a climbers path that goes a long ways climbers left before switchbacking up to the base of the Chert Locker.  Follow the cliff right and up. The beginning of the route has a large, barkless, dead tree standing below it.  The top of the pitch has a tree leaning away from the wall.

Alternatively, go to Sonar Wall and make your way left a few hundred yards. 

Protection Suggest change

10 draws and 4 long draws/alpine runners would be a nice setup. Don't get caught up there without a helmet.

70m rope to rap.

Photos

loading