High Pitched
5.12- YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3.3 from 19 votes
Type: | Sport, 600 ft (182 m), 7 pitches |
FA: | FA: Catrina Sisco |
Page Views: | 2,851 total · 44/month |
Shared By: | Rprops on Sep 6, 2019 · Updates |
Admins: | Luke EF, Justin Johnsen |
5.12a/b/c or 5.11 A0
A bolted adventure in view of the car. This route takes the path of least resistance to the top, with a sustained amount of 5.10 climbing with some interspersed 11-. The crux pitch has been onsighted, and is easily french-freed, so if you climb 5.11, this route is totally in your wheelhouse.
P1. Spaced bolts and blocky. 2 bolt anchor all the way at the top of the ledge. 5.7 100' 5 bolts.
Shift left 20' to the other side of the tree.
P2. Belay bolt. This is a good pitch. Vertical, pumpy face climbing leads to a move left to a crack. Up this until it ends, then face climbing right on great chert. Ends with some sharp rock. (Ignore off route rap-anchor midpitch). 10-. 11 bolts. 100'
P3. The roof. Big holds on the bottom. Short defined crux can be easily pulled through. Maybe 10+ before and after crux.
10 bolts, b7 colored red for aid. B9 also only for aid. 5.12/5.10A0. 10 bolts. 50'
P4. A good pitch. Up then traverse right over rounded arete. Stay LOW on techy feet. Up the awkward corner. Then move left-to-right across face to sidepull jugs. Run out feeling final section is heady, but only 10-. 70' 8 bolts. 5.11
P5. Straight up the corner. A short easy section brings you to a vertical wall with a chossy looking wide crack. Not that chossy, with a wild final move to get back on low angle terrain. The last 30' has plenty of dirt. Extend 2nd last bolt or skip it. 115' 10 bolts. 5.10.
P6. Techy from start to finish. STAY LEFT at the upper crux (avoid calcite crack out right). Great belay above.
10 bolts. 70'. 11a
P7. Sweet chert and stemming up a short pitch. Ignore unneeded bolt just right of the anchors. Could be combined w p6. 5 bolts. 60'. 5.9
Scramble to the top and look down upon the people on Cathedral who think they have a good view.
Rap the route until you get above the roof. From here rap straight down to a dedicated rap station, then back to the top of pitch 1.
Location
Alternatively, go to Sonar Wall and make your way left a few hundred yards.
6 Comments