High Pitched
5.12a/b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6a British
| Type: | Sport, 600 ft (182 m), 7 pitches |
| GPS: | 36.25117, -115.64682 |
| FA: | FA: Catrina Sisco |
| Page Views: | 2,997 total · 38/month |
| Shared By: | Rprops on Sep 6, 2019 · Updates |
| Admins: | Luke EF, Justin Johnsen |
Latest update as of May 2025:
fs.usda.gov/r04/humboldt-to…
~* Open / Accessible *~
ROUTE 158 CRAGS
All Open (Starter Crag, Robbers Roost, Glasshouse, etc.)
CATHEDRAL ROCK AREA / SOUTH LOOP
The Dark Tower
Palantine Wall
Chert Locker
The Chapel
Sonar Wall
The Belltower
Sound Garden
Walden
Weakness Wall
Cathedral Rock N Face
BLUE SKY BLUFF / PIRATES COVE
Open
THE HOOD / THE BALCONY
Access from N Loop Trail only
!!! Closed !!!
MARY JANE AREA
Imagination Wall
Fast Food Crag
Universal Wall
Mary Jane Cliff
White Pine Cliff
Yellow Pine Cliff
Walla Walla Wash
Nueva Esperanza
5.12a/b/c or 5.11 A0
A bolted adventure in view of the car. This route takes the path of least resistance to the top, with a sustained amount of 5.10 climbing with some interspersed 11-. The crux pitch has been onsighted, and is easily french-freed, so if you climb 5.11, this route is totally in your wheelhouse.
P1. Spaced bolts and blocky. 2 bolt anchor all the way at the top of the ledge. 5.7 100' 5 bolts.
Shift left 20' to the other side of the tree.
P2. Belay bolt. This is a good pitch. Vertical, pumpy face climbing leads to a move left to a crack. Up this until it ends, then face climbing right on great chert. Ends with some sharp rock. (Ignore off route rap-anchor midpitch). 10-. 11 bolts. 100'
P3. The roof. Big holds on the bottom. Short defined crux can be easily pulled through. Maybe 10+ before and after crux.
10 bolts, b7 colored red for aid. B9 also only for aid. 5.12/5.10A0. 10 bolts. 50'
P4. A good pitch. Up then traverse right over rounded arete. Stay LOW on techy feet. Up the awkward corner. Then move left-to-right across face to sidepull jugs. Run out feeling final section is heady, but only 10-. 70' 8 bolts. 5.11
P5. Straight up the corner. A short easy section brings you to a vertical wall with a chossy looking wide crack. Not that chossy, with a wild final move to get back on low angle terrain. The last 30' has plenty of dirt. Extend 2nd last bolt or skip it. 115' 10 bolts. 5.10.
P6. Techy from start to finish. STAY LEFT at the upper crux (avoid calcite crack out right). Great belay above.
10 bolts. 70'. 11a
P7. Sweet chert and stemming up a short pitch. Ignore unneeded bolt just right of the anchors. Could be combined w p6. 5 bolts. 60'. 5.9
Scramble to the top and look down upon the people on Cathedral who think they have a good view.
Rap the route until you get above the roof. From here rap straight down to a dedicated rap station, then back to the top of pitch 1.
Location
Maybe 70 yards before the 2nd bench the trail takes a hard right. Walk straight off the path into some deadfall and pick up a climbers path that goes a long ways climbers left before switchbacking up to the base of the Chert Locker. Follow the cliff right and up. The beginning of the route has a large, barkless, dead tree standing below it. The top of the pitch has a tree leaning away from the wall.
Alternatively, go to Sonar Wall and make your way left a few hundred yards.



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