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High Pitched

5.12-, Sport, 600 ft (182 m), 7 pitches,  Avg: 3.3 from 19 votes
FA: FA: Catrina Sisco
Nevada > Southern Nevada > Mt Charleston > Kyle Canyon > Echo Cliffs > N Echo Cliff > Big Echo
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5.12a/b/c or 5.11 A0

A bolted adventure in view of the car.  This route takes the path of least resistance  to the top, with a sustained amount of 5.10 climbing with some interspersed 11-.  The crux pitch has been onsighted, and is easily french-freed, so if you climb 5.11, this route is totally in your wheelhouse.

P1. Spaced bolts and blocky. 2 bolt anchor all the way at the top of the ledge. 5.7 100' 5 bolts.

Shift left 20' to the other side of the tree.

P2.  Belay bolt.  This is a good pitch. Vertical, pumpy face climbing leads to a move left to a crack.  Up this until it ends, then face climbing right on great chert.  Ends with some sharp rock. (Ignore off route rap-anchor midpitch).  10-. 11 bolts. 100'

P3. The roof. Big holds on the bottom.  Short defined crux can be easily pulled through. Maybe 10+ before and after crux.  

10 bolts, b7 colored red for aid. B9 also only for aid.  5.12/5.10A0.  10 bolts. 50'

P4. A good pitch. Up then traverse right over rounded arete. Stay LOW on techy feet. Up the awkward corner.  Then move left-to-right across face to sidepull jugs. Run out feeling final section is heady, but only 10-.    70'  8 bolts. 5.11

P5. Straight up the corner.  A short easy section brings you to a vertical wall with a chossy looking wide crack. Not that chossy, with a wild final move to get back on low angle terrain. The last 30' has plenty of dirt. Extend 2nd last bolt or skip it. 115' 10 bolts. 5.10.

P6. Techy from start to finish.  STAY LEFT at the upper crux (avoid calcite crack out right). Great belay above.

10 bolts. 70'. 11a

P7. Sweet chert and stemming up a short pitch. Ignore unneeded bolt just right of the anchors. Could be combined w p6.  5 bolts. 60'. 5.9

Scramble to the top and look down upon the people on Cathedral who think they have a good view.

Rap the route until you get above the roof.  From here rap straight down to a dedicated rap station, then back to the top of pitch 1.

Location

Maybe 70 yards before the 2nd bench the trail takes a hard right. Walk straight off the path into some deadfall and pick up a climbers path that goes a long ways climbers left before switchbacking up to the base of the Chert Locker.  Follow the cliff right and up. The beginning of the route has a large, barkless, dead tree standing below it.  The top of the pitch has a tree leaning away from the wall.

Alternatively, go to Sonar Wall and make your way left a few hundred yards. 

Protection

10 draws and 4 long draws/alpine runners would be a nice setup. Don't get caught up there without a helmet.

70m rope to rap.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Overview from memory.
[Hide Photo] Overview from memory.
Route overview.
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Pitch 1 is not in this photo.
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Climbers are on top of P3.
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Green X marks the Rappel only anchor.
[Hide Photo] Route overview. Pitch 1 is not in this photo. Climbers are on top of P3. Green X marks the Rappel only anchor.
Pitch 4. A lesson in humility and patience.
[Hide Photo] Pitch 4. A lesson in humility and patience.
Pitch 5.  Just another stupid corner on bullet rock.
[Hide Photo] Pitch 5. Just another stupid corner on bullet rock.
That short girl beta.  Catrina styling through the roof with her unique beta.
[Hide Photo] That short girl beta. Catrina styling through the roof with her unique beta.
Returning to the final anchor after topping out.  Mind your step.
[Hide Photo] Returning to the final anchor after topping out. Mind your step.
Trey topping out on this choss pile of a climb - please be careful with the rappels!
[Hide Photo] Trey topping out on this choss pile of a climb - please be careful with the rappels!
Danny getting after pitch 2.  If you climb 10-, it would be worth doing just the first 2 pitches to try this one out.
[Hide Photo] Danny getting after pitch 2. If you climb 10-, it would be worth doing just the first 2 pitches to try this one out.
Pitch 6 has a punchy start.
[Hide Photo] Pitch 6 has a punchy start.
Summit's are overrated. Don't waste your time.
[Hide Photo] Summit's are overrated. Don't waste your time.
Allen wrapping up pitch 4, honestly i don't know if i liked this pitch or the roof better!
[Hide Photo] Allen wrapping up pitch 4, honestly i don't know if i liked this pitch or the roof better!
Tiny little climbers on the traverse pitch
[Hide Photo] Tiny little climbers on the traverse pitch

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Michael Kimm
Free Soil, MI
[Hide Comment] This thing looks rad!! Do you have a topo photo you could post that shows the line? I think I know where this line is the wall, but I'd love to know for sure! Dec 22, 2019
Melinda Russell
Longmont
[Hide Comment] Walking up to the beautiful rock face I was wondering why there was only one line established on this whole thing! Well, by the time the second rock (of 3) nailed me from above, I realized the answer. The route itself is really fun solid climbing! However, it is surrounded by tons of loose blocks and choss. When they say “don’t get caught up there without a helmet,” that is in fact, the most crucial piece of beta you need.

There’s an anchor at the top of pitch 7, on the left, but I noticed another bolt to the right. After bringing up my partner, I scrambled up the left side to the false summit and noticed another bolt on the other side (on the real summit side). We didn’t follow this over but instead rapped. Not sure if there’s an 8th set of anchors? I’d imagine so, unless there’s an undisclosed walkoff. Jun 3, 2020
Jack Kearney
Escondido
 
[Hide Comment] The climbing on this route is phenomenal and the setting is fantastic. You can tell the FA put a ton of effort into cleaning it up, and bolted with the intent of making the route very approachable. Unfortunately there is a ton of loose rock on all the ledges on the route, and in the corner at the final anchor. As safely as this route is bolted I would give it an R rating if you go without a helmet. Jul 19, 2020
[Hide Comment] Anybody got any pointers on the crux moves?

An awesome outing! Crux pitch is currently equipped with chain permas. Sep 18, 2021
Joey Latina
Las Vegas, NV
  5.12b
[Hide Comment] I had a blast on this thing! Here’s a few notes:

If linking pitches link these:
- Pitches 1-2 can be linked with a 70 and some brain cells
- Pitches 5-6 can be linked

Other notes:
- Pitch 7 has a pile of shit about 2/3s of the way up it likely from a bird or small mammal
- Pitches 2, 3, and 4 would be classic on their own
- Regardless of this route climbing well there is still some loose rock on the lower angled scrambling and the ledges, be careful
- The Roof is great and likely goes at 5.12b for those who are shorter, and 5.12a for those that are taller Jun 27, 2022
[Hide Comment] Beta video for the crux pitch: youtu.be/4PsU8JgYnbk?si=zSc…
I pulled off a chest size jug block near the start that makes the beginning a little more annoying, but doesn’t change the grade. It was chalked up and had likely been used many times, but I guess with enough freeze thaw cycles anything can change. Aug 29, 2024