A bolted adventure in view of the car. This route takes the path of least resistance to the top, with a sustained amount of 5.10 climbing with some interspersed 11-. The crux pitch has been onsighted, and is easily french-freed, so if you climb 5.11, this route is totally in your wheelhouse.
P1. Spaced bolts and blocky. 2 bolt anchor all the way at the top of the ledge. 5.7 100' 5 bolts.
Shift left 20' to the other side of the tree.
P2. Belay bolt. This is a good pitch. Vertical, pumpy face climbing leads to a move left to a crack. Up this until it ends, then face climbing right on great chert. Ends with some sharp rock. (Ignore off route rap-anchor midpitch). 10-. 11 bolts. 100'
P3. The roof. Big holds on the bottom. Short defined crux can be easily pulled through. Maybe 10+ before and after crux.
10 bolts, b7 colored red for aid. B9 also only for aid. 5.12/5.10A0. 10 bolts. 50'
P4. A good pitch. Up then traverse right over rounded arete. Stay LOW on techy feet. Up the awkward corner. Then move left-to-right across face to sidepull jugs. Run out feeling final section is heady, but only 10-. 70' 8 bolts. 5.11
P5. Straight up the corner. A short easy section brings you to a vertical wall with a chossy looking wide crack. Not that chossy, with a wild final move to get back on low angle terrain. The last 30' has plenty of dirt. Extend 2nd last bolt or skip it. 115' 10 bolts. 5.10.
P6. Techy from start to finish. STAY LEFT at the upper crux (avoid calcite crack out right). Great belay above.
10 bolts. 70'. 11a
P7. Sweet chert and stemming up a short pitch. Ignore unneeded bolt just right of the anchors. Could be combined w p6. 5 bolts. 60'. 5.9
Scramble to the top and look down upon the people on Cathedral who think they have a good view.
Rap the route until you get above the roof. From here rap straight down to a dedicated rap station, then back to the top of pitch 1.
Free Soil, MI
Longmont
There’s an anchor at the top of pitch 7, on the left, but I noticed another bolt to the right. After bringing up my partner, I scrambled up the left side to the false summit and noticed another bolt on the other side (on the real summit side). We didn’t follow this over but instead rapped. Not sure if there’s an 8th set of anchors? I’d imagine so, unless there’s an undisclosed walkoff. Jun 3, 2020
Escondido
NV
An awesome outing! Crux pitch is currently equipped with chain permas. Sep 18, 2021
Las Vegas, NV
If linking pitches link these:
- Pitches 1-2 can be linked with a 70 and some brain cells
- Pitches 5-6 can be linked
Other notes:
- Pitch 7 has a pile of shit about 2/3s of the way up it likely from a bird or small mammal
- Pitches 2, 3, and 4 would be classic on their own
- Regardless of this route climbing well there is still some loose rock on the lower angled scrambling and the ledges, be careful
- The Roof is great and likely goes at 5.12b for those who are shorter, and 5.12a for those that are taller Jun 27, 2022
I pulled off a chest size jug block near the start that makes the beginning a little more annoying, but doesn’t change the grade. It was chalked up and had likely been used many times, but I guess with enough freeze thaw cycles anything can change. Aug 29, 2024