Type: Trad, 90 ft (27 m), 2 pitches
FA: Winston and Wisner
Page Views: 464 total · 14/month
Shared By: Matt Wenger on Sep 1, 2019
Admins: GRK, Zach Wahrer

You & This Route


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Description

This page describes a distinct route, but also includes beta involving pitches from other routes to get you to the summit. It is a truly wonderful 5.9 linkup to the summit! Probably the most fun way to summit if you are comfortable at the grade.

Damaged Goods:
Pitch 1 (60', 5.9): Climb a single finger crack splitting a clean face, up onto a sloping ledge, and then into a set of double thin/finger cracks directly above. Gear belay.

Pitch 2 (30', 5.4): Essentially just moving the belay up to the base of P2 of Power Pusher. Step up climbers left onto the ramp, and walk up to the next corner. Gear belay.

Pitch 2a (30', 5.9): From the top of P1, get up onto the ramp lookers left, and almost immediately start into the thin hands/hand crack that veers back to your right. Pitch name: Off Track (FA Dwight Bishop, 1987).

Pitch 2b (20', 5.10d R): Climb the right facing dihedral directly above P1 with basically no gear. Looks scary. (FA: Dwight Bishop, 1987).

Additional beta to summit:
Pitch 3 (25', 5.9): P2 of Power Pusher. Absolutely stellar hand crack in the right facing dihedral. Gear belay.

Pitch 4 (50', 5.8+): P3 of Proboscis. Wide flaring hand crack. Belay after it levels out, and then just walk to the chains. It is a safe, pleasant stroll along the top. P3 and 4 easily linked. Gear belay.

Descent: Use the main rappel station way back on the North end of the formation. 70m rope makes it down in one go, otherwise use the midway station for shorter ropes.

Location

On the west face, up the bouldery gully. Look for a distinct splitter finger crack splitting a clean face.

Protection

Gear from 0.1-3". Emphasis on small stuff for P1. Long slings if linking pitches. No fixed belays.

Photos

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