Type: Trad, Alpine, 575 ft (174 m), 5 pitches
FA: Michel Piola, P-A Steiner 7/1984
Page Views: 638 total · 22/month
Shared By: Eric Bluemn on Jul 13, 2019
Admins: Euan Cameron, Luc-514, David Riley

You & This Route


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Description

P1, 6a: Ascend cracks and flakes up towards the roof and then step left into a shallow dihedral. Climb past a fixed pin to the end of the dihedral and then move back right across hollow flakes to a fixed belay.
P2, 6b+: The business. Climb unprotected off the belay until you reach the roof where you can clip the fixed gear (nut and loop of rope 7/2019). Make burly moves through the overhang until you can reach the base of another crack (bolt next to crack). Ascend a series of cracks that are sustained but easier than the crux below. Eventually you’ll reach another 2-bolt anchor.
P3, 6b: The money pitch. Climb directly up a series of cracks trending right. The cracks are sustained but never desperate. A long outstanding pitch. Belay on the edge of the arete on the right at a small stance.
P4, 6b: From the belay traverse hard left into a wide crack. Climb this through the offwidth section, then traverse left into another crack system that turns into an offwidth. You’ll end at a nice ledge with a bolted belay. Each offwidth also has a bolt, but save some large gear for the top.
P5, 6a (?): Climb up a crack right from the belay and then make a hard move to establish yourself at the base of a flaring chimney. Grunt through the chimney, then climb the wide crack (bolt) above to belay at the shoulder of the Red Pillar. While the guidebook called this pitch 6a, it seemed as difficult as the previous two 6b pitches. Also, avoid the chimney on the left which is the last pitch of Les Diamants.

Descent: Either rap the route (some off-route belay stations to the right) or continue up the last pitch of Nabot-Leon. From the top of Nabot-Leon you can follow three more pitches to the top of the Red Pillar (and then rappel 4 double rope raps down L’Eau Rance d’ Arabie). If you still haven’t had enough, you can continue up Osez Joséphine.

Location

Approach: as per the Red Pillar. The route is located to the right of Les Diamants du President right where the trail crosses a gully. As you look up you should be able to see some fixed gear in the crux roof right at the start of pitch 2. There's another crack through a roof a few meters to the right, but this is not the correct start and is much more difficult.

Protection

Gear: Double ropes, stoppers, some small cams, double cams from fingers to #3, one #4. There are places where a #5 might be useful but not necessarily required, depending on your comfort level with offwidth climbing. Tape gloves or equivalent recommended.

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