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Routes in Aguille de Blatiere

Nabot Leon T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Osez Joséphine T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, Alpine, 590 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 139 total, 8/month
Shared By: Jan Rous on Jul 12, 2016
Admins: Euan Cameron, Luc-514

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Description

Nice 5.9 climbing with good variety. Cracks, face and occasional short steep move over bulges. Finishes with easier terrain on the ridge and tops out on the Pilier Rouge.

P1 (5.8): varied terrain to corner, follow that up to a belay stance.
P2 (5.8): step right from belay and climb the corner. Eventually step right and climb thin crack up to a belay (? we may have gotten off route here)
P3 (5.9): few steep moves off a belay, over the face and features to a next comfortable belay at a ledge.
P4 (5.8): move up over the bulges and face (few bolts) onto an amazing left-facing slab.
P5 (5.9): step right into a corner, move up and higher up through cracks and eventually move left through diagonal flaring cracks.

You can continue climbing for 2 more pitches to reach the top of Pilier Rouge. Keep on the ridge and follow occasional bolts.

If you finish the climb, rap down the Eau Rance d’Arabie line which goes on the skiers right of this climb (steep face) otherwise your ropes can get stuck.

You can also rap to the notch behind Pilier Roughe and link this climb with Ossez Josephine.

Protection

bolted belays and occasional bolt here and there on the climb.

Photos

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Luc-514
Montreal, Quebec
Luc-514   Montreal, Quebec  
Can you please add where the climb is located, how to get there? Oct 4, 2016