Type: Trad, Alpine, 590 ft (179 m), 5 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,810 total · 27/month
Shared By: Jeff Klassen on Jul 12, 2016
Admins: Euan Cameron, Luc-514, David Riley

You & This Route


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Description

Nice 5.9 climbing with good variety. Cracks, face and occasional short steep move over bulges. Finishes with easier terrain on the ridge and tops out on the Pilier Rouge.

P1 (5.8): varied terrain to corner, follow that up to a belay stance.
P2 (5.8): step right from belay and climb the corner. Eventually step right and climb thin crack up to a belay (? we may have gotten off route here)
P3 (5.9): few steep moves off a belay, over the face and features to a next comfortable belay at a ledge.
P4 (5.8): move up over the bulges and face (few bolts) onto an amazing left-facing slab.
P5 (5.9): step right into a corner, move up and higher up through cracks and eventually move left through diagonal flaring cracks.

You can continue climbing for 2 more pitches to reach the top of Pilier Rouge. Keep on the ridge and follow occasional bolts.

If you finish the climb, rap down the Eau Rance d’Arabie line which goes on the skiers right of this climb (steep face) otherwise your ropes can get stuck.

You can also rap to the notch behind Pilier Roughe and link this climb with Ossez Josephine.

Location

To my best recollection, the approach is as follows:
1. Take the Midi lift up to the Plan Praz stop.
2. Hike along the Plan towards the Montenvers train station for 20 or so minutes until you are just about even with the Aiguille de Blaitiere.
3. There is a feint climbers trail heading up a glaciated ridge directly towards the Lames Fontaine feature at the base of the Blaitiere. Note: avoid  'short cutting' up the scree before the trail along the ridge. This will add lots of time to your approach.
4. Cut to the left side of  Lames Fontaine to the base of a several-hundred-foot tall snow field. Crampons and Ice Axe will be required here if the snow field is icy and very useful if the snow field is soft.
5. Approximately 75% of the way up the snow field, you will notice a 'path of least resistance' way up and over Lames Fontaine. This goes at 3rd class but is exposed in places.
6. Once on top of Lames Fontaine, continue trending right around the Pillar Rouges to a corner system which is the base of the route.

Protection

Bolted belays and occasional bolt here and there on the climb. Standard Rack

Photos