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Routes in Aguille de Blatiere

Nabot Leon T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Osez Joséphine T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 127 total · 7/month
Shared By: Jan Rous on Jul 18, 2016
Admins: Euan Cameron, Luc-514

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Description

Four pitches of amazing climbing. To reach the base of this climb you first need to reach the summit of Pilier Rouge.

P1 (5.9): from the notch, move right over the flake and gain the crack through steep A shaped incut. Amazing finger-crack follows.
P2 (5.8): cross the loose rock and gain more amazing finger cracks via hollow flakes. Follow the cracks to a belay on a ledge left of a big corner.
P3 (5.9): step into the corner and climb steepening wide crack. Gain the ledge above and reach belay above it (short but good pitch)
P4 (5.10): easy climbing from belay leads into steep thin crack. Climb to the top and then gain the face (bolts) and climb this to the top.

Protection

bolted anchors, couple of bolts protect slab/face moves. Rappels off a single (!) (but new-ish) bolt at the top.

Photos

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Luc-514
Montreal, Quebec
Luc-514   Montreal, Quebec  
Can you please add where the climb is located, how to get there? Oct 4, 2016