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> British Columbia
> Squamish
> Shannon Falls
> Papoose
> Backside Area
Scared to Smear
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 2.1 from 10
votes
Routes in Backside Area
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Bidding War S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Blown Budget S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Call An Arborist T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Capital Gains T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Condo Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Corner Unit T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Counteroffer T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Curb Appeal T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Down Payment T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Eviction Notice T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Glacial Facial T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Groove Tube, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Income Suite T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Just Wanna Jam T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Market Rate T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Not Too Slabby T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Priced Out T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Scared to Smear T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Seams Obvious T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Strata Fees T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Stress Test S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 95 ft (29 m) |
| GPS: | 49.66905, -123.16343 |
| FA: | Nick McNutt 2019 |
| Page Views: | 825 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Nick McNutt on Jul 4, 2019 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
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Access Issue: Camping
Details
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
Climb the low-5th groove past a stump to a ledge. From here, move up left into a finger crack, avoiding the chimney. Be careful as rock quality in the chimney system is poor.
Alternatively, from the ledge, climb further left protected by a small but bomber TCU to reach the nice handcrack of "Just Wanna Jam", but at a more modest grade of 5.9-ish
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