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Not To Code
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3 from 9
votes
Routes in Narrows West
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Blower Install S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Nakin T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Not To Code S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Saturn Ascends S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Undertow S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
| Type: | Sport, 115 ft (35 m) |
| GPS: | 37.52165, -118.57349 |
| FA: | Marty Lewis, Darrell Hensel, Jeff Scheuerell, Tom Helvie, 4/2019 |
| Page Views: | 1,155 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Darrell Hensel on May 21, 2019 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue:
Details
1) Never park or camp overnight at the access points.
2) Always park off the pavement, taking great care to avoid blocking the gates.
3) Clean up after your dogs. (Local climbers are finding abandoned doggie poop bags.)
4) Pack out all trash and TP, including picking up after others.
5) Use the outhouses if at all possible.
Description
Easy climbing leads to an overhanging bulge with a small right leaning flake feature. The crux takes the flake for a few moves before going out left on reachy jugs through the steepest part of the bulge. Good moves that will vary in difficulty depending on the climbers bouldering abilities and/or height. Shorter people will probably find it close to the given grade, it may be a little easier if tall.
After the crux proceed up the fun face on surprisingly good holds. A final move or two will be encountered at the last angle change. Proceed past a few more bolts on lower angle high quality rock.
The anchors are on a small ledge at almost exactly 35m from the ground. If doing this by itself one can lower and reach the ground. This anchor can also be utilized if doing Nakin on a < 70m rope, or as the best strategy for getting off Blower Install.
There are two chain draws at the overhanging crux due to: 1) getting the bolts high enough in better quality rock, and 2) to facilitate clipping one side of the rope through to prevent the rope going into the water when pulling. Good luck with #2 if the water is high.
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