Type: Sport, 150 ft
FA: Darrell Hensel, Jeff Scheuerell, MartyLewis, Tom Helvie, 4/2019
Page Views: 207 total · 42/month
Shared By: Darrell Hensel on May 21, 2019
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Bridges Out! IMPORTANT LADWP NEGOTIATIONS!! Details

Description

Nice long pitch with a great location directly above the river.  Good variety of climbing, starts with a thin finger crack, takes an overhanging arete, followed by some easier fun steepish face, then slab climbing on high quality rock for the last half of the pitch.

Start by following the thin crack to a lower angle section that takes one into the base of the double overhanging corner.  Break out left across the overhanging left wall onto the exposed and undercut arete (crux).  It is possible to use a sidepull to gain height to clip the high crux bolt before stepping back down a move to take a slightly different line for the sequence (can also go directly but a little harder to clip.)  The upper half climbs just right of a faint dihedral on superb rock, with a touchy little sequence at the final bolt.  Hint: manage rope run to avoid drag, the amount of rope out is heavy enough as is.

The belayer can see the leader through the crux, but not for the entire top half of the route. When leading this gives a feel of being up there all by your little lonesome self.  Conversely, while belaying, in the words of Tim Steele, it turns into "just you and the river" for awhile.

Descent: Be careful, one rope will NOT get you down.  Perhaps the best strategy is to lead, lower to the Not To Code anchor (comfortable), belay a follower, lower them to NTC, then a 35m rapp (using an NTC chain to prevent the rope going into the water.)  A climber whose name shall remain anonymous (haha, couldn't resist) attempted a direct lower on an 80m.  It didn't work and I believe resulted in a bit of a problem when the rope ran out while hanging in space over the river - probably don't want to go there. Two ropes would obviously work but the ropes would guaran-damn-teed fully go into the river when pulling.  In spite of the descent sheenanigans this is a really good route, well worth the trouble. (single 70m will work going down to NTC, clueless about a 60m - might be dicey)

Get it while/when the water is low.  It will take very little increase in flow to put the start in the water.

Wow.  TMI.

Location

Right of Not To Code, rightmost route on the wall.  Starts at the lowest point of the wall off the small flat landing after crossing the stream.

Protection

17 bolts. Mussies.

Photos