Type: Trad, Sport, 140 ft (42 m), 2 pitches
FA: Strassman, Ayers 1989
Page Views: 680 total · 4/month
Shared By: david goldstein on Aug 7, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Bridges Out! IMPORTANT LADWP NEGOTIATIONS!! Details


Of the well over 100 ORG 5.10s I've done, this might be the one I remember most, though this is not the same thing as saying it's the best. The legs wet approach, unpleasant & unbolted first pitch and meager bolting on P2 assure that you'll not have to queue up for this one.

This is the left most climb at Narrows West, about 50-100' downstream of Megalomaniac. Getting to the start involves wading through the stream and establishing a belay on some ledges.

P1: Is a bushy, chossy 5.8 crack protected w/ gear that is about 60' long. If I recall correctly it ended at rap anchors.

P2: 80' long, 5 bolts. The bottom half is quite sparsely bolted, very fun face climbing which takes supplemental finger size and smaller gear. The upper half of the pitch has more reasonable bolting but the climbing is desperate for the grade slabbing which ends at old school anchors featuring crusty slings, probably from the first ascent, one of which broke on us as we were setting up the rap.

Two single rope raps back to the starting ledges. Extra points for keeping your rope dry.


P1 takes gear up to 3 inches. A few finger and smaller size pieces are nice to have on P2.


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