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California
> Sierra Eastside
> Bishop Area
> Owens River Gorge
> Inner Gorge
> Narrows West
Nakin
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 2.5 from 2
votes
Routes in Narrows West
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Blower Install S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Megalomaniac S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Nakin T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Not To Code S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Point of Entry (aka Not for Brucy!) S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Smokey the Beer S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Supergroveler S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 140 ft, 3 pitches |
| FA: | Strassman, Ayers 1989 |
| Page Views: | 491 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | david goldstein on Aug 7, 2006 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Bridges Out! IMPORTANT LADWP NEGOTIATIONS!!
Details
Due to liability concerns, bridges are being removed in the Owens River Gorge at the request of LADWP. The Bishop Area Climbers Coalition and the Access Fund are currently in negotiations with LADWP to get this issue resolved. In the meantime, please continue to be good land stewards by respecting these bridge closures and finding alternate crossing points until this issue is resolved.
1) Never park or camp overnight at the access points.
2) Always park off the pavement, taking great care to avoid blocking the gates.
3) Clean up after your dogs. (Local climbers are finding abandoned doggie poop bags.)
4) Pack out all trash and TP, including picking up after others.
5) Use the outhouses if at all possible.
1) Never park or camp overnight at the access points.
2) Always park off the pavement, taking great care to avoid blocking the gates.
3) Clean up after your dogs. (Local climbers are finding abandoned doggie poop bags.)
4) Pack out all trash and TP, including picking up after others.
5) Use the outhouses if at all possible.
Description
Of the well over 100 ORG 5.10s I've done, this might be the one I remember most, though this is not the same thing is saying it's the best. The legs wet approach, unpleasant & unbolted first pitch and meager bolting on P2 assure that you will not have to queue up for this one.
This is the left most climb at Narrows West, about 50-100' downstream of Megalomaniac. Getting to the start involves wading through the stream and establishing a belay on some ledges.
P1: Is a bushy, chossy 5.8 crack protected w/ gear that is about 60' long. If I recall correctly it ended at rap anchors.
P2: 80' long, 5 bolts. The bottom half is quite sparsely bolted, very fun face climbing which takes supplemental finger size and smaller gear. The upper half of the pitch has more reasonable bolting but the climbing is desperate for the grade slabbing which ends at old school anchors featuring crusty slings, probably from the first ascent, one of which broke on us as we were setting up the rap.
Two single rope raps back to the starting ledges. Extra points for keeping your rope dry.
This is the left most climb at Narrows West, about 50-100' downstream of Megalomaniac. Getting to the start involves wading through the stream and establishing a belay on some ledges.
P1: Is a bushy, chossy 5.8 crack protected w/ gear that is about 60' long. If I recall correctly it ended at rap anchors.
P2: 80' long, 5 bolts. The bottom half is quite sparsely bolted, very fun face climbing which takes supplemental finger size and smaller gear. The upper half of the pitch has more reasonable bolting but the climbing is desperate for the grade slabbing which ends at old school anchors featuring crusty slings, probably from the first ascent, one of which broke on us as we were setting up the rap.
Two single rope raps back to the starting ledges. Extra points for keeping your rope dry.
Photos
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