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> Paynes Ford
> Track 4
The Beast Within
5.12c YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks IX- UIAA 27 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 4 from 1
vote
Routes in Track 4
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Beast Within, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Burly but Sensitive S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Dave's Arete S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Dirty Harry S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Dread Fever S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Electricorp Production S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Feisty Red T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Feral Pakeha S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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High Voltage S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Lights Out S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Make My Grumpy Cat Dance S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Recidivist S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Redlining to the max S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Send a Gorilla S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Super Blonde S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Voice of the Beehive S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Wreck Tangle S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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You’re either dead or you’re not S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Sport, 70 ft (21 m) |
| GPS: | -40.8881, 172.81157 |
| FA: | Nick Sutter 1991 |
| Page Views: | 604 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Andy Riley on Apr 11, 2019 |
| Admins: | Muscrat, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
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Description
A great line on excellent stone, I didn't find the crux to be any one move, but keeping it together on a serious of tough moves, while also being able to clip the bolts. Bring your power endurance.
Location
Shares the start and first bolt of 'Papageno' towards the right side of Globe Wall before Electricorp Wall
Protection
6 bolts and an anchor. I had to extend several of the draws the first one for rope drag and 3,4, and 5 to put them in a position where I could clip them on my redpoint burn. there's also a big runnout from the fourth to the fifth, but by the time you get way up into that section the holds get better and the angle eases up a bit.
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