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Up & Over
5.3 YDS 3+ French 10 Ewbanks III UIAA 9 ZA VD 3a British
Avg: 1.3 from 9
votes
Routes in Apparition Rock (Rear)
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Amsterdam S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Between the Sports T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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Mr. Kromm's Last Hurrah T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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No Sleep Till Brooklyn S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Rocky Summers in Tucson S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Shish-Ka-Bill S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Up & Over T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
| Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
| GPS: | 34.09215, -116.16403 |
| FA: | First known ascent: Roddy McCalley and Rob Kelman, 3-20-2019 |
| Page Views: | 1,074 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Roddy McCalley on Mar 28, 2019 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
A short-cut from the back to the front of Apparition Rock, and a fun little corner. To do it in the style of the first ascent, you must lead this route with a 40-lb pack on your back. Crux move is getting off the ground and up to where you can place your first piece--not too far, maybe 10 feet off the deck. This may be a 5.4 move but in the great JT tradition, we won't count the first 10 feet towards the grade. From there, jam, stem and smear up the corner, then wander up through wide cracks and blocks, up and over to the top of Apparition. At the moment there is no rap anchor on Apparition so you'll need to do the traditional down-climb, which is exposed, grainy 5th class. This is one of the ways JT makes you a better climber. Or you can rap from the anchors atop Amsterdam but then you're on the backside again and you have failed to take the shortcut to the front of the formation. I recommend hanging a top-rope on Apparition and lowering/rappelling down it with all your gear so that the last person to climb that route can drop the rope and do the down-climb without a pack (or rappel Amsterdam and walk all the way around).
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