Up & Over

A short-cut from the back to the front of Apparition Rock, and a fun little corner.  To do it in the style of the first ascent, you must lead this route with a 40-lb pack on your back.  Crux move is getting off the ground and up to where you can place your first piece--not too far, maybe 10 feet off the deck.  This may be a 5.4 move but in the great JT tradition, we won't count the first 10 feet towards the grade.  From there, jam, stem and smear up the corner, then wander up through wide cracks and blocks, up and over to the top of Apparition.  At the moment there is no rap anchor on Apparition so you'll need to do the traditional down-climb, which is exposed, grainy 5th class.  This is one of the ways JT makes you a better climber.  Or you can rap from the anchors atop Amsterdam but then you're on the backside again and you have failed to take the shortcut to the front of the formation.  I recommend hanging a top-rope on Apparition and lowering/rappelling down it with all your gear so that the last person to climb that route can drop the rope and do the down-climb without a pack (or rappel Amsterdam and walk all the way around).

Climb the corner just right of 'Don't Sleep Till Brooklyn'

Single rack of cams. You can use a #4 in the anchor.