Type: Trad, 350 ft, 5 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 140 total · 14/month
Shared By: mdbrown Brown on Mar 26, 2019
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Description

Great route with fun moves and good protection the entire way.  Several traverses look difficult, but the holds and protection are always there.  Continuously interesting and varying climbing.  Great views across the Grampians.

P1:  Up the featured wall, moving into the corner, up on the block, then traverse right to a bolted anchor.
P2:  Straight up the corner from the anchor.  Belayed on the left.  Could have easily linked up with P3.
P3:  Short pitch up and a bit left to an alcove.
P4:  Up left side of the corner system, and moving right halfway up.  This was the crux for me.  Up to a block under a roof system.  Climb on the block, then traverse right (better holds and pro than it looks).  Can belay after the traverse, or make easy moves around right an up to a big ledge.  Watch for rope drag on this pitch.  If rope drag is managed well, can easily link with P5.
P5:  Very short pitch.  Right and up, then left and up to summit.

Join hiking trail towards summit (left) for 5-10 minutes, then down Giant's Staircase to base of cliff.

Location

Take the hiking trail from the Mt. Rosea carpark.  After about 0.5 km, there is a trail sign.  Head left from this sign to the base of the cliff.  Approach is about 30 minutes.

From the base of the cliff, head right around the large corner system that juts out.  The first pitch heads up to the ledge on the next arete on the right.  The climb actually starts on the featured wall with good holds about 15 left of the corner.

Protection

Standard rack. Used a #4 a few times, but would have been fine without it.

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