All Locations > New Hampshire > NH Ice & Mixed > - Northern NH > N Bald Cap ICE > 1. The Motherlode

Canary

Name: Canary
Rating: 4.0

WI5+ X

Routes in 1. The Motherlode

L › R R › L A › Z

	Alchemist, The WI4
	Arm Robbery WI4+
	Canary WI5+ X
	Circus camp M7
	Fuzz Butts WI5-6 M8
	Gallerian short king WI5 M7
	Gateway to dagger County WI5 M6
	In the Diddly weeds WI4 M6
	Maxfields Medicine T WI4 M5 PG13
	Raw in the wild WI5+ M5-6 PG13
	Treasure Chest WI4-
	Welcome to Dagger Country T WI5 M4

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Type:	Ice, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches
GPS:	44.46208, -71.07152
FA:	January 2008 A. Pellett, S. Maciejowski
Page Views:	1,036 total · 12/month
Shared By:	Seth Maciejowski on Mar 19, 2019 · Updates
Admins:	Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description

Canary tackles the big free hanger that drools off an overhang in the right middle side of the Motherlode wall at NBC. Originally, a committing and dangerous lead on a 15+' long free hanger. Over 17 years, the route was never repeated. Bolts have now been placed on the rock to protect the huge hanging dagger.

Climb up 80' of easier grade 3 ice to a belay on the right at some trees. Climb Wi3+ ice up to a pedestal below the free hanger. Get some pro in the mushrooms at the bottom of the free hanger, collect yourself and tap and chip your way up the hanger, clipping bolts, for a long way before you can safely place a screw above the attachment point. Climb another 15-20'' of vertical to overhanging ice above the free hanger to easier ice and the trees.

Location

On the right middle side of the motherlode wall is this obvious hanger flow. In good years it may touch down and make for a more reasonable lead.

Protection

On the first ascent, the tall free-hanger was climbed directly without any protection. Bolts were added in 2025 by Shwn Bunnell with permission from the first ascentionists to protect the free-hanging section in the event of a fall or the hanger breaking off.)