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Routes in Tuttle Slab
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Bioluminescence T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Firecracker T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Professor Handsome T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Solstice Buttress T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 1200 ft (364 m), 8 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Derek & Giselle Field (2018) |
| Page Views: | 704 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Derek Field on Mar 8, 2019 |
| Admins: | Chris Owen, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Certain Peaks: Access limited from May to October every year
Details
Some of the peaks in this area are restricted (not all). See the Inyo National Forest's Mount Whitney Zone regulations webpage fs.usda.gov/detail/inyo/pas… for current information. Access is usually limited from May to October of every year from the highest elevations of most of the Lone Pine Creek watershed.
Description
This route has some good climbing, some mediocre rambling, and plenty of ledges. A nice low-commitment route that saves the best stuff for the upper half. Wear your comfy shoes.
Pitch 1 (5.8, 150 feet): Climb the wide right-facing corner passing a big ledge halfway up. Belay from two-bolt anchor.
Move the belay 100 feet up the left-trending gully to the next corner.
Pitch 2 (5.8, 150 feet): Climb right-facing corner to a gear belay under a 10-ft horizontal roof crack.
Pitch 3 (5.7+, 100 feet): Either climb directly over the roof, or shuffle around the right side. Easy scrambling leads to a massive belay ledge with trees.
Scramble 100 feet up 3rd-class ledges.
Pitch 4 (5.7+, 200 feet): Choose from the options below; climb until you run out of rope.
Pitch 5 (5.9, 100 feet): Tricky but good. Sail up the thin veggie crack past a tree to a two-bolt belay.
Pitch 6 (5.10c, 130 feet): Crux pitch. Battle the impressive left-arcing flake. Desperate crux moves are encountered at the top as the clean polished granite suddenly degrades into crunchy oatmeal. Thankfully the gear is all good. Pull the little roof and continue up the crack to a two-bolt belay.
Pitch 7 (5.10a, 190 feet): Awesome pitch. Bust a dicey slab move up and left to gain a widening handcrack. Jam the crack through a roof past a huge downward-protruding spike. Continue up the crack and, when presented with options, go left: a curving splitter out near the arete. Slammer hands glory leads into a spiderweb of cracks and eventually a two-bolt belay.
Pitch 8 (5.9+, 190 feet): Maintain a direct line on the arete for a short ways before stepping right beneath a huge overhanging block. Chug up the hidden right-facing ramp to the notch in the summit ridge. Turn right and finish on a splitter fingercrack boulder problem. Belay from slung horn.
Rappel the route with two 60m ropes.
Pitch 1 (5.8, 150 feet): Climb the wide right-facing corner passing a big ledge halfway up. Belay from two-bolt anchor.
Move the belay 100 feet up the left-trending gully to the next corner.
Pitch 2 (5.8, 150 feet): Climb right-facing corner to a gear belay under a 10-ft horizontal roof crack.
Pitch 3 (5.7+, 100 feet): Either climb directly over the roof, or shuffle around the right side. Easy scrambling leads to a massive belay ledge with trees.
Scramble 100 feet up 3rd-class ledges.
Pitch 4 (5.7+, 200 feet): Choose from the options below; climb until you run out of rope.
- Heading straight up (the most logical) is 5.7+.
- Heading left (the best) means that halfway up you are likely to encounter a fun 5.10a hand/finger crack.
- Heading right (the easiest) can be done mostly unroped as there is only one 5th class move on the left-trending ramp.
Pitch 5 (5.9, 100 feet): Tricky but good. Sail up the thin veggie crack past a tree to a two-bolt belay.
Pitch 6 (5.10c, 130 feet): Crux pitch. Battle the impressive left-arcing flake. Desperate crux moves are encountered at the top as the clean polished granite suddenly degrades into crunchy oatmeal. Thankfully the gear is all good. Pull the little roof and continue up the crack to a two-bolt belay.
Pitch 7 (5.10a, 190 feet): Awesome pitch. Bust a dicey slab move up and left to gain a widening handcrack. Jam the crack through a roof past a huge downward-protruding spike. Continue up the crack and, when presented with options, go left: a curving splitter out near the arete. Slammer hands glory leads into a spiderweb of cracks and eventually a two-bolt belay.
Pitch 8 (5.9+, 190 feet): Maintain a direct line on the arete for a short ways before stepping right beneath a huge overhanging block. Chug up the hidden right-facing ramp to the notch in the summit ridge. Turn right and finish on a splitter fingercrack boulder problem. Belay from slung horn.
Rappel the route with two 60m ropes.
- Rap P8 from slung horn.
- Rap P7 from two-bolt anchor.
- Rap P6 from two-bolt anchor.
- Rap P5 from two-bolt anchor.
- Rap P4 from tree.
- Rap P3 and part of P2 from tree.
- Rap from one of many trees in the middle of P2.
- Rap P1 from two-bolt anchor.
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