| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 1400 ft (424 m), 9 pitches, Grade III |
| GPS: | 36.54616, -118.2089 |
| FA: | Derek & Giselle Field (2018) |
| Page Views: | 972 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Derek Field on Mar 10, 2019 |
| Admins: | Chris Owen, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski |
Description
We did this route on the 4th of July and didn't make it back down in time for fireworks in town. Oh well.
Pitch 1 (5.6, 100 feet): Scramble up into the major recess as for Jim's Buttress.
Move the belay 150 feet up the scree gully and traverse right along the ledge, passing a hanging left-facing corner en route to a short right-facing corner. Belay with small gear.
Pitch 2 (5.8+, 140 feet): Jam the short overhanging corner and continue straight up the center of a bowl/weakness on discontinuous cracks to a tree belay.
Pitch 3 (5.7+ R, 200 feet): Take the path of least resistance up the giant broken slab (poor pro), aiming for an obvious shiny trio of left-facing corners on the steep green wall above.
Pitch 4 (5.10a, 200 feet): Head up into the right-hand corner with an insecure move to get established. Layback this corner for a short ways until forced left into the middle corner. After 15 feet, step right into the initial corner. Fight grainy rock to the top of the pillar. Clip a bolt and bust an exposed face move up and left. Optional belay here, or keep going if drag isn't too bad. Zigzag up easy ramps, keeping a direct rope line. Make a gear belay at the end of your rope.
Pitch 5 (5.6, 150 feet): Climb and scramble up into a giant right-facing corner and belay beneath a short wide overhang.
Pitch 6 (5.8, 180 feet): Grunt past the wide overhang and cruise up the corner to a major ledge. Don't slog up the gully; instead, continue straight up a fingercrack in the middle of the face. Past the splitter, trend right on white dihedrals to a belay on a prominent right-trending ramp.
Pitch 7 (5.9, 180 feet): Follow the big easy ramp to the right, aiming for the clean-cut left-facing corner beneath the Firecracker Roofs. Climb up the corner past a wild overhang and belay below the huge roof.
Pitch 8 (5.9, 80 feet): Undercling and jam the huge, jagged Firecracker Roofs. It's only difficult when the feet disappear.
Pitch 9 (5.6, 100 feet): Finish the route on easy terrain. Keep going hard right for a couple hundred feet (4th-class) and look around the edge for the two-bolt anchor that starts the Bioluminescence rappels. May take some time to locate.
Rappel down Bioluminescence. Check out that route page for details.



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