Type: Trad, 700 ft (212 m), 7 pitches
GPS: 38.48775, -120.2267
FA: Greg Donaldson, Brian Cox, 1972. FFA Ron Felton, Jon Fox
Page Views: 1,158 total · 13/month
Shared By: Salamanizer Ski on Jan 24, 2019 · Updates
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description Suggest change

The "Sponge" was the first route climbed on Calaveras Dome by Greg Donaldson, Brian Cox, 1972. They climbed Gemini Cracks on Hammer dome first to preview the dome and chose this route. The free version was completed in the late 90's and renamed Calaveras Dreamin' to remove the unattractive pretense. Green Sponge is a good route with moderate difficulties through a couple short cruxes. Not well traveled, you'll encounter the occasional moss filled crack but the quality is overall good and would be great if it were to see more traffic.

Pitch 1. (5.10-) Start in the left facing corner from Tsunami Ledge and climb the dihedral to a sloping ledge and a bolted anchor.

Pitch 2. (5.9) Follow the corner up to a tree and find a suitable anchor here.

Pitch 3. (5.9) Climb past a couple trees growing from the corner crack and exit to a fracture out on the face to the right. This will avoid the mungy corner further left. Eventually you rejoin the main corner system and belay under a large roof at a two bolt anchor. Pitches 2 and 3 can be linked with some attentive rope maintenance to avoid excessive drag.

Pitch 4. (5.9) A strange pitch which follows a flake out on the face and eventually climbs through a steep section to a two bolt anchor.

Pitch 5.  (5.10c) Climb up the face avoiding some munge until you can re-enter the main corner system. Climb through a difficult section which will bring you to a strange ramp and a very exposed position. Find a way to negotiate the corner and work your way out right to a sloping dike that forms a ramp. Tiptoe your way across the dike eventually ending at a two bolt anchor. This is the money pitch.

Pitch 6. (5.7) Climb the corner above.

Pitch 7. (5.7) Continue up the corner to the large ledge above and a sling belay. Bring extra slings. Pitches 6 and 7 can be linked.

Location Suggest change

The far right side of the Tibetan Tower. Located the furthest one can go on the Tsunami Ledge.

Rappel the route or walk 400 feet left on the large ledge and you can rappel Wall of the Worlds. You can traverse right and rappel Sands of time or do a short pitch and reach the top to the Tibetan Tower and rappel Silk Road. 

Protection Suggest change

Cams to 3" Nuts 1 set.

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