Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: Luke Bertelsen - Oct. 2018
Page Views: 921 total · 52/month
Shared By: Luke Bertelsen on Oct 21, 2018
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Access trail crosses a private ranch Details

Description

I was very happy to pick up where someone left off on this amazing route.  Five bolts were placed previously on this route a long time time ago.  Stealing Thunder threads the needle up the slightly overhung wall between two abandoned beehives, and it is easy to spot this route by the lone hueco at mid height and short corner feature directly above it.

Underclings and pockets lead to a seam right off the ground and the climb grabs your attention right away with a tricky sequence required to establish onto the face proper.  You are then immediately climbing 5.11 terrain consisting of edges, slots, and sloping smears for feet.  Make your way to the hueco where a kneebar rest awaits.  Get it while you can because the next section will require all of your energy.  Establish on a fat left hand tufa and small gaston just above the rest, the wall goes blank, and there is a good flat ledge quite a ways up and left - a very interesting and difficult dyno/deadpoint guards the access to the corner above.  The only way I could complete this move involved trusting a poor and slightly high left foot and committing to letting my right hand blow off of the wall creating an amazing barn door swing that will leave you feeling like a superhero.  

Above the dynamic move is another section of solid 5.12 climbing involving narrow compression up the corner, more pockets and pods, sequential climbing, and a final airy romp to the top of the wall.  This single pitch has it all, and is one of the best at the grade I have climbed in Southern AZ.  

 

Location

Currently the leftmost route in The Bowling Alley.

Protection

12 bolts to lower-off anchors.

Photos