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Stealing Thunder
5.13a YDS 7c+ French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 29 ZA E6 6c British
Avg: 3.1 from 18
votes
Routes in Bowling Alley Main Wall
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7-10 Split S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Bees Knees, The S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Changing Lanes S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Gutterballs S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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House of Sky S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Kingpin S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Lies and Candy S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Limestone Lanes S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Lisp, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Log Jammin' S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Open Project S 5.14 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b |
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Player Haters Ball, The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Rinse and Repeat S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Rookie, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Snare the Spare S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Stealing Thunder S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Strikes and Gutters S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Superunknown S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Underwhere S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Wash Your Language S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Who Do You Think You Are, I Am! S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
| Type: | Sport, 85 ft (26 m) |
| GPS: | 31.69154, -110.42929 |
| FA: | Luke Bertelsen - Oct. 2018 |
| Page Views: | 3,406 total · 38/month |
| Shared By: | Luke Bertelsen on Oct 21, 2018 |
| Admins: | adrian montaño, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
Access Issue: Private land crossing and parking information - PLEASE READ BELOW !
Details
Please be respectful and keep this access open to climbers. Use posted photos for this area to familiarize yourself with where parking is and is not allowed. Access to all gates must remain available to a truck and trailer. Parking in any way that restricts access to the gates north of the highway will jeopardize access for climbing.
Description
I was very happy to pick up where someone left off on this amazing route. Five bolts were placed previously on this route a long time time ago. Stealing Thunder threads the needle up the slightly overhung wall between two abandoned beehives, and it is easy to spot this route by the lone hueco at mid height and short corner feature directly above it.
Underclings and pockets lead to a seam right off the ground and the climb grabs your attention right away with a tricky sequence required to establish onto the face proper. You are then immediately climbing 5.11 terrain consisting of edges, slots, and sloping smears for feet. Make your way to the hueco where a kneebar rest awaits. Get it while you can because the next section will require all of your energy. Establish on a fat left hand tufa and small gaston just above the rest, the wall goes blank, and there is a good flat ledge quite a ways up and left - a very interesting and difficult dyno/deadpoint guards the access to the corner above. The only way I could complete this move involved trusting a poor and slightly high left foot and committing to letting my right hand blow off of the wall creating an amazing barn door swing that will leave you feeling like a superhero. If you want to get scrunchy other options do exist.
Above the dynamic move is another short section of 5.12- climbing involving narrow compression up the corner The climbing then eases but you still get more pockets and pods, sequential climbing, and a final airy romp to the top of the wall. This single pitch has it all, and is one of the best at the grade I have climbed in Southern AZ.
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