Type: Trad, 150 ft (45 m)
FA: NB (rope solo)
Page Views: 482 total · 15/month
Shared By: nbrown on Oct 16, 2018
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Access Issue: Raptor Closures Details

Description

This climbs the middle portion of the main wall and merges into "Pluto", which is then taken to the summit. If you're a fan of the older style ground-up SPlatte slab/face routes, then you'll probably really dig this one. Semi-spicy slabbin' down low leads to tighter bolt spacing as the wall steepens. There are several amazing jugs out of sight high on the wall too, making the climbing more reasonable than it looks from the ground.

Start in front of the large conifer on the ramp roughly in the middle of the wall.

Climb up and right via short rail and scoops to a bolt (out of sight) about 20' up. Continue up and rightward past a short seam/crack that takes a #0 TCU. From here, follow the right-trending line of bolts up the slab to a short, right-facing corner where the wall steepens. Stem the corner to the end, and move right to a good jug and ledge. Clip a high bolt, and pull the improbable-looking bulge above to yet another hidden jug. Mantel up, and clip the last bolt. From here, step right and merge into the last section of "Pluto", where it jogs hard left. I used a #2 and #0.5 Camalot to protect the last traverse section to the anchors.

It's possible to continue straight up into pitch 2 of "Pluto" rather than traversing left to the anchor. This creates a mega 200' pitch! If you do, bring three #1 TCUs, #2 Camalot, and a few small/med stoppers for this last section in addition to the #0 TCU below.

Location

It is in the middle of the wall up on a ramp and in front of a large conifer.

Protection

9 bolts and gear -- see the description.

Photos

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