Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: NB
Page Views: 231 total · 18/month
Shared By: nbrown on Oct 29, 2018
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Raptor Closures Details

Description

With technical face climbing, positive lieback corners, a short crack, and even a wild roof move at the top, this route is an interesting adventure up the shady, north-facing side of the formation. It is very sustained for the grade - maybe it's 5.11.... Also, this is a great route to do on a hot day while waiting for shade to hit the main wall. It was originally done on 9 bolts but was re-engineered to avoid the awkward gear and reachy clips in the middle "crack" section. There is some grainy rock in sections, but the climbing is plenty worthwhile.

Start in the short chimney, then step left to the line of bolts. Weave around, as necessary, following seams and corners to the top of the flake. From here, step out right, then make big moves back left through the roof. Above the roof, follow an easy crack (optional finger-size cam) to the anchor up and and right of the small tree, 90'.

Location

This is ~100' uphill from "Beelzebub" on the north-facing side of the formation.

Protection

11 bolts and a possible finger-size cam at the end.

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