Type: Trad, 250 ft, 3 pitches
FA: NB (rope solo)
Page Views: 274 total · 20/month
Shared By: nbrown on Oct 16, 2018
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Raptor Closures Details

Description

This climbs the left diagonaling crack and face left of "Nacimiento del Diablo" in 2 or 3 pitches. The first two are pretty outstanding and could easily be linked into one long mega pitch. The last is worth doing if you want to gain the summit block.

P1. Start up on the ledge at a small cedar tree (3rd Class access ramp). Climb the obvious, left-leaning crack feature, which is best done as a lieback, to a ledge with bolts at about 100'. This is a very cool pitch, but the climbing and the gear is a bit strenuous.... Bring at least a double set of cams to #2 Camalot and perhaps one #3 Camalot, plus a healthy set of medium size stoppers, 5.10+/11-?

P2. Traverse back right along a horizontal crack (large stopper here) to a stance and some underclings. You get a #1 TCU here. Step up and right where it's possible to also get a reachy stopper for the cruxy bulge move overhead. Climb straight up past another # TCU/small stopper to a small overlap and a bolt. Crimp your way through the overlap and up the short headwall on small but positive holds to an anchor on the ledge. This is a very short pitch and would probably be best added to the end of pitch 1 for a mega pitch (I was rope soloing and opted for the ledge rest instead). If you link these, save three # 1 TCUs for this last section (the 3rd protects the direct portion the normal routes climb around), 5.11?

P3. This is not great climbing, but it gains a nice ledge at the top of the formation. From the belay bolts, climb left around the corner using a semi-hollow flake. Beware of the big block on the traverse -- you don't want to pull that thing off! I would have trundled it but didn't want to scar the wall below. Gain the crack and chimney, and climb it to the top, then step up and left onto the taller summit block and belay. Rack: medium size cams up to #4 Camalot, ~ 5.7+.

Rap from bolts in the boulder to the anchor on the ledge atop pitch 1, which is right at 100'. Another 100' rap puts you in the vicinity of the small cedar tree at the start of the route. From there, you can scramble down the way you came up. Don't try to rap straight down the wall as the rope will not be long enough.

Location

See the description.

Protection

See the description for a pitch breakdown.

Photos

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