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Routes in Underworld

Beelzebub T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Coronal Mass Ejection T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Devil's Plaything T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Holy Diver S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Jesus Fish T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nacimiento del Diablo T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pluto T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
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Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: Wolfe, Maxson, Green
Page Views: 494 total · 19/month
Shared By: Furthermore on Oct 1, 2016
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Raptor Closures Details

Description

Nacimiento del Diablo starts up an easy offwidth crack on the right prow of Devil's Rejects. Although the climbing doesn't look that good, it has a surprisingly awesome finish which is much harder than it appears.

Begin with some 5.7 climbing. Although you're climbing up a wide crack, there are plenty of features around the crack to avoid the OW battle. Sneak under an arching slot which clamps down into a body squeeze.

Transition out of the squeeze to an exposed, fantastic, hand crack that traverses upward (crux). The crack narrows, and just when you think you're not going to be able to escape, exit up and right onto a ledge with a large boulder. Belay here.

Rappel west (bolted anchor) into a gully which takes you back to the base of the climb.

Notes:

-A 60m will NOT work for top-roping this climb.

-For those who are above our trad leading pay grades and feel adventurous:

Pitch 2 - continue up the arete (low 5th), hand traverse below a giant block, and follow a seam (slopers with some gear) as it traverses above the entire face. Somehow surmount the roof (5.12?) and finish up a fist crack to the top of the formation. A lead bolt or three may be required to surmount the roof and supplement poor protection in the traverse (has been checked from the top down).

Protection

Nuts & a double rack. You may want triples in hand sized pieces and an optional BD C4 #5.

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