Everybody Pushes a Broom
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Early Access
| Type: | Sport, 115 ft (35 m) |
| GPS: | 40.42159, -105.24011 |
| FA: | Kevin Reed, Fred AmRhein, Craig Zimmerman, Andy Howard, June, 2017 |
| Page Views: | 956 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Fred AmRhein on Sep 28, 2018 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Description
Ascend a shiny, well-featured slab to a low roof with a sharp-edged crack in it. Head up, carefully get established below this roof, and figure out how to clip the second bolt. It’s not that difficult, but it is a little tricky. Once you have gained a good position using features at the roof, it is very secure while clipping. Get through the lower crack as best you can (feet, feet, feet . . .), and head up to the large, boulder strewn ledge. Scramble up big features, and clip the bolt up high on the face (it’s placed to aid in keeping your rope away from the sharp features on the ledge). Dance up the clean face with sharp edges here and there, and start to wonder how you will get through the next roof . . . . Get established below the roof, and clip the bolt over the lip before trying to get over it (just a recommendation but a good one . . . falls onto the lower slab would be ugly . . .). Then, well, you figure it out . . . again, feet, feet, feet . . . . Clip the last bolt above the roof, and then it is a long, reasonable way to a set of rap rings in a shallow scoop. This route would get more stars, but the huge ledge with its boulders and the trudge to the top detract from the overall quality.
The story behind the name: for most of us, the adage is true; we’ve all had to pick up after ourselves and others at times, no matter the level of education, experience, or ripeness of age. Sometimes it’s not fair, but that’s what we must do, and on this route, everybody indeed pushed a broom, cleaned off small flakes, tossed pebbles. . ., and trundled some huuuuuge, loose boulders! So large in fact that they sadly took out the old snag that used to sit below Indifferent. We ask forgiveness, oh Timeless Greatness! Parts of the large boulders that shed off the face of Everybody Pushes a Broom lie at the bottom of Indifferent, the route to the right.
Location
Midway along the base of the middle tier of The Ledges cliff complex, find a slightly left-leaning pillar feature with a small pine tree about mid-height, Love Again. To the right are large, overlapping slabs that comprise much of The Classic. Continue down a few steps around a crumbly corner (Corbel will be above you), and find a slick, shiny face with a bolt up fairly high but easily reached. A large pine growing in the scree is at the foot of this face. A small roof with a short crack feature at about the 20' level distinguishes the route.



2 Comments