Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Andy Tuthill, Susan Frankenstein 1993
Page Views: 249 total · 25/month
Shared By: Nolan Huther on Sep 28, 2018
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Description

An excellent trad climb and a North Country classic! Beautiful location, loaded with cracks, and almost guaranteed solitude.

Step through a tree to gain the face on the right side of the arete. Up to an overlap, then move around the arete to a tight hands crack, then gain a secure fingercrack. Then, onto the crux face sequence where the crack ends. Punch it to a working stance (crux), clip a bolt, then step onto the right face to gain an orange jug*. Swing back left around the arete again into a corner, then up to a ledge. A burly crack pulls through a bulge and then deposits you at a cedar with a fixed anchor.

*The jug is a flake which seems fine, but be careful handling it. Pull down, not out!

Location

In front of a triangular, waist-high boulder downhill and right of the massive Planet Claire corner, at the left side of the base of the towering arete.

Protection

A pretty full rack. Fist size gear useful. Doubles in the #1 C4 size are particularly recommended. The bolt is questionable...

Photos