Early Access
| Type: | Sport, 100 ft (30 m) |
| GPS: | 40.42159, -105.24011 |
| FA: | Fred AmRhein, Andy Howard, Kevin Reed, Fall 2016 |
| Page Views: | 976 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Fred AmRhein on Sep 24, 2018 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Description
Clip the first bolt (a stick clip isn’t a bad idea), and do a bit of a bouldery move to attain a ledge. Head up and left on broken rock and a nicely featured face, and find yourself under a roof. Do a tricky face move or two to establish yourself at the roof, and reach out to clip the bolt on the angled break in the roof. Go through the slot doing an interesting reach, and step or two and find yourself up on another ledgy feature. Proceed up blocky dihedrals, and head out left to the anchors. Just to your right will be the bolts on Love Again. Stay with the line of bolts going to the left to find the chains for Counting Sheep.
How wonderful to have bighorn sheep do a drive-by within a few yards while climbing! Two ewes and a lamb sauntered by one morning. Scree went flying from beneath their cloven hooves as they picked up speed to gracefully, at first anyway, trot by . . . . Then the little one suddenly spooked and careened eerily close to the edge of the top of the lower cliffs at a few spots. They then quickly and effortlessly hopped up human-sized steps and ledges onto the mound of scree at the west end of the crag and peered inquisitively back at us. Evidently satisfied that we were no threat, the mother turned back toward her littlest one and gave it a ram with her short horns on the butt to encourage it on down to the west of the cliff line . . . and then they were gone. Count yourself lucky, and count the sheep, if you happen to have a similar experience!
Location
From the west, traverse along the cliff bottom, and step down a few steps at a cave-like overhang. Continue east under a buttress (the start of Rainbird and Redbird) around to a corner (Tenacious), and find a large boulder, the Impact Zone (so-called due to the propensity for plunging projectiles to impact in that area). Continue under and beyond the IZ Boulder, and find a severely undercut face with some smaller boulders beneath it. The Pedestal is the left route, and Bashful is the right route.
To the right and around the corner from The Pedestal and Bashful, you will find a large, sharp-edged wedge of a boulder at the bottom of a large crack system. Just to the right of this crack is a beautiful green slab, Green Hornet is on the left and Counting Sheep is on the right.



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