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Early Access
Routes in The Ledges
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A Friendly Bush S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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A Slow Motion Classic Car Crash S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Bashful S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Big Thompson Yard Sale, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Classic, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Corbel S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Counting Sheep S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Domino Theory S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Egg Shell Fairy, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Everybody Pushes a Broom S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Friend Or Bro? S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Girl's Always Right, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Green Hornet S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Guided By Angles S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Hard to Reed S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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I'm Not Your Mother S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Indifferent S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Love Again S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Monoped S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Near Miss Adventure S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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No-No Blox, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Pedestal, The S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Rainbird S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Redbird (aka Ladybird) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Severe Tire Damage S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sitting Pretty S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Tenacious S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
| Type: | Sport, 115 ft (35 m) |
| GPS: | 40.42159, -105.24011 |
| FA: | Fred AmRhein, Craig Zimmerman, Kevin Reed, Winter, 2016 |
| Page Views: | 1,256 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Fred AmRhein on Sep 21, 2018 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Access issue - Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc. - open since 2023
Details
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Description
Don’t be shy and shrink from what looks at first like an ugly start, the undercut bouldery beginning. The first bolt is easy to clip, and once you get over your first impression and give this one a try, you will realize that the upper portion of this route is a face climber’s dream. It has a bit of a harder start than its sister to the left, do what you must do by utilizing the various features to establish yourself on the lower face. It is definitely recommended on this one to stick clip the second bolt if possible to avoid scraping up the climber or the rope in case the start presents difficulties. Ascend to the ledgy area and broken rock, then head up right of the bush to the dark and beautiful face. Be ready to find sharp, angled, layback-like features for both your hands and feet! Finish through a shallow depression-like area between some broken rock on the left and right.
Caution: use at least a 70m rope to lower or rappel from this route, and take care to avoid fraying your rope after the last few feet as you step down from the face onto the lower boulders.
Location
From the west, traverse along the cliff bottom, and step down a few steps at a cave-like overhang. Continue east under a buttress (the start of Rainbird and Redbird) around to a corner (Tenacious), and find a large boulder, the Impact Zone (so-called due to the propensity for plunging projectiles to impact in that area). Continue under and beyond the IZ Boulder, and find a severely undercut face with some smaller boulders beneath it. The Pedestal is the left route and Bashful is the right route.
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