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Early Access
Routes in The Ledges
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A Friendly Bush S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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A Slow Motion Classic Car Crash S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Bashful S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Big Thompson Yard Sale, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Classic, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Corbel S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Counting Sheep S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Domino Theory S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Egg Shell Fairy, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Everybody Pushes a Broom S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Friend Or Bro? S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Girl's Always Right, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Green Hornet S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Guided By Angles S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Hard to Reed S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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I'm Not Your Mother S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Indifferent S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Love Again S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Monoped S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Near Miss Adventure S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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No-No Blox, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Pedestal, The S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Rainbird S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Redbird (aka Ladybird) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Severe Tire Damage S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sitting Pretty S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Tenacious S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
| Type: | Sport, 110 ft (33 m) |
| GPS: | 40.42159, -105.24011 |
| FA: | Kevin Reed, Pablo Frank, Jake the Russian, Fall 2016 |
| Page Views: | 1,536 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Fred AmRhein on Sep 20, 2018 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Access issue - Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc. - open since 2023
Details
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Description
Domino Theory has very interesting and different climbing from the get go for sure. A tricky overhang and face leads to the large ledge. A well-protected move from the ledge gets you started up the dihedrals and ledges. Somewhat puzzling moves from the last ledge, i.e. cruxy . . . , get you to a face and a final small roof. Overcome the roof, and get to the lower set of chains. From here, you can lower on a 70m rope (tie knots just in case, the angling nature of the route tends to make your rope feel shorter...). For a bonus, proceed up to the left for another bolt and then to the upper chains as on the Sitting Pretty extension. These upper chains will need either an 80m rope for lowering or a multiple rappel to get you down to the crag bottom.
When first climbed, at least one large, “domino”-like slab was teetering on the cliff and was removed finding its way to the river bottom. That first domino picked up a few other smaller dominoes along the way, and many pieces and shards ended up taking a swim... no bats, birds, or wasps were injured during the process as far as is known.
CAUTION: toprope, lower, or rappel with at least a 70m rope from the lower anchors, and tie knots to avoid trouble (it's a rope stretcher!) Use an 80m to get all the way down from the upper anchors.
Location
From the west, traverse along the cliff bottom, and step down a few steps at a cave-like overhang. Continue east under a buttress (the start of Rainbird and Redbird) around to a corner (Tenacious), and find a large boulder, the Impact Zone (so-called due to the propensity for plunging projectiles to impact in that area). Just before arriving on the boulder, find the undercut start to Domino Theory. Left of DT is Sitting Pretty.
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