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Redbird (aka Ladybird)
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 2.7 from 11
votes
Early Access
Routes in The Ledges
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A Friendly Bush S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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A Slow Motion Classic Car Crash S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Bashful S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Big Thompson Yard Sale, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Classic, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Corbel S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Counting Sheep S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Domino Theory S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Egg Shell Fairy, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Everybody Pushes a Broom S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Friend Or Bro? S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Girl's Always Right, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Green Hornet S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Guided By Angles S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Hard to Reed S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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I'm Not Your Mother S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Indifferent S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Love Again S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Monoped S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Near Miss Adventure S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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No-No Blox, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Pedestal, The S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Rainbird S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Redbird (aka Ladybird) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Severe Tire Damage S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sitting Pretty S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Tenacious S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
| Type: | Sport, 130 ft (39 m) |
| GPS: | 40.42159, -105.24011 |
| FA: | Fred AmRhein, Kevin Reed, Craig Zimmerman, 3/1/2018 |
| Page Views: | 1,014 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Fred AmRhein on Sep 19, 2018 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Access issue - Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc. - open since 2023
Details
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Description
Either boulder up to the first bolt from the ground on sloping holds or start from the overhang/cave area by reaching over to the first bolt (this latter start is recommended due to the potential tumble down scree and over the lower cliff line).
Follow 3 bolts up the ledgy face, and take the right line of bolts (the left line of bolts is Rainbird) that goes up the lighter colored rock, passing a small pine tree (recommended to go to the right of the pine tree). Proceed to a ledge with a belay/rap station. Clip here, and proceed above toward and through the red colored dihedral above. Stem, lieback, etc., through a few bolts to a set of chains.
CAUTION on the DESCENT: this is a long route at 130'. From the upper anchors, a 70m rope WILL NOT get you back to the cliff base by lowering or rappelling! The descent is to either use an 80m rope and rap/lower to the bottom, or use a 70m rope to rappel/lower to the mid- anchors, then pull rope, and rap/lower to the cliff base.
Location
The start is shared with Rainbird. When approaching from the west along the base, just after stepping down a few feet from the cave-like overhang, find the start.
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