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Early Access
Routes in The Ledges
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A Friendly Bush S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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A Slow Motion Classic Car Crash S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Bashful S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Big Thompson Yard Sale, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Classic, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Corbel S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Counting Sheep S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Domino Theory S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Egg Shell Fairy, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Everybody Pushes a Broom S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Friend Or Bro? S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Girl's Always Right, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Green Hornet S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Guided By Angles S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Hard to Reed S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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I'm Not Your Mother S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Indifferent S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Love Again S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Monoped S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Near Miss Adventure S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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No-No Blox, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Pedestal, The S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Rainbird S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Redbird (aka Ladybird) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Severe Tire Damage S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sitting Pretty S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Tenacious S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
| Type: | Sport, 115 ft (35 m) |
| GPS: | 40.42159, -105.24011 |
| FA: | Fred AmRhein, Craig Zimmerman, July 2017 |
| Page Views: | 1,221 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Fred AmRhein on Sep 18, 2018 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Access issue - Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc. - open since 2023
Details
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Description
Either boulder up to the first bolt from the ground on sloping holds or start from the overhang/cave area by reaching over to the first bolt (this latter start is recommended due to the potential tumble down scree and over the lower cliff line).
Follow 3 bolts up the ledgy face, and take the left line of bolts to a large, left-slanting gully/crack system (the right line of bolts on the lighter colored face is for Redbird.
Step over the upward left-trending gully/crack and then to a thought provoking, final, small overhang (5.9-ish move toward left). As for most routes at the Ledges, there are occasional loose features found even though there was extensive removal of loose rock when putting the route up. There is an original higher set of anchors that lie 10-15 feet above and slightly left of the first anchors and the climbing in between involves lower grade, ledgy climbing (CAUTION: a 70m rope WILL NOT get you to the ground from the upper anchors).
The route was finished during an afternoon rain storm, and the FAs were communicating by arm signals, appearing to some as if flapping like birds.
Another NOTE of CAUTION: at least one climber being lowered from the 1st anchors using a supposed 70m rope has been dropped (it wasn't quite 70m obviously...and the "knot in the end of the rope rule" had been overlooked...). Luckily the climber landed and rolled only slightly to a stop before the abrupt cliff below. In another instance, a rope in a bag was dropped down from the route's upper start on the approach ledge and suffered a worse fate. In almost a comical scene, it at first rolled slowly and seemed to stop and settle, but then it picked up rolling speed and tumbled over the edge and down the lower cliff, landing just short of the river a hundred feet or so below. So, be careful and tie knots, make sure your rope reaches where you need it to on Rainbird]], and you might think twice about absent-mindedly tossing gear to the ground in this particular area.
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