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> 05. Cantons-de-…
> Mont Pinacle
> k. Planétarium
Jules
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 3 from 10
votes
Routes in k. Planétarium
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Anneau de Saturne S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Cameleon T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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El dedo T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Jules T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Jupiter S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Mars T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Mercury S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Petit crapaux belliqueux T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Saturne S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
| GPS: | 45.02348, -71.89792 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 885 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Franck Vee on Aug 12, 2018 |
| Admins: | Thierry Berland, Richer Lariviere, Luc-514 |
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Access Issue: This cliffs is insured by the FQME
Details
This cliffs is under the liability insurance of the Fédération Québécoise de la Montagne et de l'Escalade (FQME).
Residents of Canada need to have:
-FQME 'Accès Montagne' membership (55$)
-For members of the Alpine Club of Canada an FQME 'Accès Montagne' upgrade (30$)
Or purchasing a 10$ day pass.
This money is used to pay the liability insurance for landowners regardless if they are private citizens, municipal or provincial.
The maintenance of cliffs and their access, replacing of fixed protection.
Residents of Canada need to have:
-FQME 'Accès Montagne' membership (55$)
-For members of the Alpine Club of Canada an FQME 'Accès Montagne' upgrade (30$)
Or purchasing a 10$ day pass.
This money is used to pay the liability insurance for landowners regardless if they are private citizens, municipal or provincial.
The maintenance of cliffs and their access, replacing of fixed protection.
Description
A slabby, super-thin finger crack. You'll be thankful it's slabby because the fingers are mostly thin on this one, feet are either toe tips in the pods along the crack or smearing on the slab (lots of smearing). The gear is solid when it's available but don't pass up good placements because you may come to regret it soon after as you trying to pull a fingertip lock smearing feet. It's not runout either - just place when you can get something good in.
The guidebook says 5.6. I gave it 5.7. The moves are not so hard but they are pretty thin. I might even say it's slightly sandbag compared to other areas at 5.7, but then it's probably also a matter of style (thin finger slabby finger crack) that makes it feel so.
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