Type: Trad, 60 ft (18 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 419 total · 13/month
Shared By: Franck Vee on Aug 12, 2018
Admins: Luc-514

You & This Route


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Access Issue: This cliffs is insured by the FQME Details

Description

A slabby, super-thin finger crack. You'll be thankful it's slabby because the fingers are mostly thin on this one, feet are either toe tips in the pods along the crack or smearing on the slab (lots of smearing). The gear is solid when it's available but don't pass up good placements because you may come to regret it soon after as you trying to pull a fingertip lock smearing feet. It's not runout either - just place when you can get something good in.

The guidebook says 5.6. I gave it 5.7. The moves are not so hard but they are pretty thin. I might even say it's slightly sandbag compared to other areas at 5.7, but then it's probably also a matter of style (thin finger slabby finger crack) that makes it feel so.

Location

Can be done as a 2nd pitch after climbing Mars. It's the thin finger crack you see going almost directly up from Mars' anchors.

Protection

Thin, thin thin. You may get a larger cam (Purple Totem or equiv) down low where the crack is good and larger. Other than that, smaller cams & tiny nuts.

Bolted anchors up top. 1 Double rope rap to the ground or 2 raps using the Mars anchor below.

Photos