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Mars
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 3 from 7
votes
Routes in k. Planétarium
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Anneau de Saturne S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Cameleon T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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El dedo T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Jules T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Jupiter S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Mars T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Mercury S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Petit crapaux belliqueux T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Saturne S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
| Type: | Trad, TR, 60 ft (18 m) |
| GPS: | 45.02348, -71.89792 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,094 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Franck Vee on Aug 12, 2018 |
| Admins: | Richer Lariviere, Luc-514 |
Access Issue: This cliffs is insured by the FQME
Details
Residents of Canada need to have:
-FQME 'Accès Montagne' membership (55$)
-For members of the Alpine Club of Canada an FQME 'Accès Montagne' upgrade (30$)
Or purchasing a 10$ day pass.
This money is used to pay the liability insurance for landowners regardless if they are private citizens, municipal or provincial.
The maintenance of cliffs and their access, replacing of fixed protection.
Description
Great little line. Start up a staircase-like feature as seem from the side. Rise up to get finger in the good crack up top. A great traverse to the left await to gain the smaller crack that will lead you up to the anchor. The hands (and gear) on the traverse are both stellar, but the same cannot be said for feet.
Once the main finger crack is in reach up left, use thin finger locks, toe jams & precarious (for the grade) smearing on the slabby wall. The gear on that section is tricky to place and real estate is limited (the crack isn't continuous, but rather made of a series of pods, so finger locks compete with gear placements...).
Wasn't sure how to rate that one - guidebooke says 5.6 (haha). 5.7 might be okay, but it seemed the traverse is a little way out there for 5.7.
1 Comment