Silmarillion

Along with Vestpillaren, this happened to be my favorite climb in Lofoten during my first trip. Burly moves with HUGE exposure make for a spectacular finish.

P1) 5.10a 60M. Locate the start by finding an arete/pillar below the clean, widish looking crack that cleaves the capping roofs of the Simariilion wall, on the uphill side of the Gandalf area. Move up this arete on improbably good holds, encountering some unfortunate spots where the best foot is a clod of dirt. There are belay stances partway up this pitch if you have a 50M rope. End at a tree with rappel anchors on a grassy ledge.

P2) 5.11a 25-50M. It was hard for me to know where this pitch ended, so you will have to make a call. Whatever you choose, make your way across the slippery grassy ledge to a right-facing, right-leaning corner system. Extremely fun and technical stemming will get you to good gear along the ever steepening corner. The corner eventually becomes an overlap as it cruises right. Make exciting move through this overlap to a small ledge. Supposedly there is a belay spot to the right above a flake. I continue up across pumpy flakes, jugs, and rails for a very long and sustained pitch to the rappel anchor above. It made for a fantastic pitch but also landed me a long stint in an uncomfortable hanging belay on a less-than-ideal anchor (1 bolt, 1 rust piton, and 1 unrusty piton that I could remove with my hand).

P3) 5.10a 30M. Depending on how you did P2, head up towards the left end of the roofs above, following a seepy, streaked corner that starts up and left of the rappel anchor. The moves are surprisingly solid and the gear is better than you expect from below. Either belay at the left end of the sloping ledge underneath the roof, so make a cosy belay at a small butt-sized flat area directly below the 4-5in crack that splits the left end of the roof.

P4) 5.11a 25M. Holy crap that belay stance is high isn't it? Get a high five from your partner, plug in either a bomber BD #4 or BD #3 deeper in the crack (3-5 in depending on where in the crack), and contemplate your life choices. This pitch is short, but it is a perfect example of almost zero actual risk/hazard (the anchor is great, the first piece is great, and the fall is all air for maybe 300 feet) and a crap-ton of manufactured/percieved danger. Make a step out and make an exertive pull with tons of exposure to get established in the corner above (hint: no actual wide-skills needed). Still puckering, make a couple more strenuous moves up the crack and right. Make your way to a rappel anchor here or at the top of the cliff after some easy ground (5.3). Marvelous.

Descent: three double rope rappels.

First locate the 4-5 in crack that clearly splits the left side of the roofs that cap the Simarillion Wall. Follow this line down right facing corners to a pillar/arete at the bottom of the cliff, just right of a vague black streak.

Standard rack. Either a BD #3 or #4 will do for the finishing crack (3-4in)