Type: Trad, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: Zach Niemeyer, May 2018
Page Views: 732 total · 9/month
Shared By: Zachary Niemeyer on May 21, 2018
Admins: slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher

You & This Route


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Warning Access Issue: Limited Toilet Facilities! DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

The offwidth for climbers with only small racks! Start in a slot with fingers in the back. Scum your way up to the first of two bomb bay chimneys. More shimneying gets you to the top of a pillar before entering the second bomb bay. Enter the slightly widening chimney before finally hitting the roof. Use the finger crack to pull out the roof and stand on a small ledge to clip the chains.

Location Suggest change

100 meters to the right of Petrified Hornet. Also to the right of "unknown PH fingers to Hands splitter" by 20 meters. The established trail puts you directly below this slot.

Protection Suggest change

2x0.3s, 4x0.4s, 4x0.5s, 2x0.75s. Maybe a 1. I also placed a 5, but it could easily be replaced with a smaller piece. The last chimney section could also be protected with a 6 or VG, but where's the fun in that? Two bolts with chains for the top.

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