Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Petrified Hornet Wall

Bumblebee Tuna T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Buzz, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Crescent Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Horsefly T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Kiefer Ari T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Mad Hatter T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Obeesity. T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Petrified Hornet T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Sting T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Stumpy Hornet T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown PH fingers to hands splitter T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 774 total · 8/month
Shared By: Michael Schneiter on Oct 8, 2010
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


17 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Lie back the start on the lighter rock where a block has come off the wall and pull into the off fingers splitter that passes a hollow flake and turns to thin hands as it winds it way up the wall before thinning down again before the anchors. Cripy edges abound on this thing but are hard to trust. There's a nice hold to clip the chains from to take the edge off after climbing through some thin stuff.

Location

Right of Crescent Corner and Petrified Hornet (where the trail comes up) by maybe 50 yards. Look for the splitter cutting the dark face with a block missing at the start of the climb from the left side of the crack, leaving a white scar.

Protection

Cams from tips to hands (.3 to 2 Camalots) with extras in the off fingers to thin hands.

Photos

slim

  5.11b
slim    
  5.11b
really strange - i posted this route about a year and a half ago, but it seems that my post vanished? i thought this was a 4 star route, on par with rock lobster or excuse station. Oct 11, 2010

More About Unknown PH fingers to hands splitter

Printer-Friendly