Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
TrAddicts (Addicts Variation)
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 2 from 2
votes
Early Access
Routes in E. Addict's Wall
|
Addicts T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
No Fruit S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
TrAddicts (Addicts Variation) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
| Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m) |
| GPS: | 39.7376, -105.3205 |
| FA: | Alex Ruff |
| Page Views: | 801 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Alex R on Mar 10, 2018 |
| Admins: | Shirtless Mike, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
Description
This is a variation of Addicts that keeps the fun crack climbing up high but skips the bolted face, including the thin height-dependent move getting into the crack. Start in the crack system just left of Addicts up to a ledge, then go up the wide crack to the base of the first roof. Traverse under the roof to meet up with Addicts.
The route still has some flaking rock, both on the face and the wide crack section, so be careful.
Protection
As the name implies, this variation is purer trad than Addicts. I would recommend a full rack. I used a #4 c4 for the fist crack, though any large piece should work. Micro cams are useful for the start of the roof.
This route follows the protectable crack system which is very much not a straight line. Bring long slings.
1 Comment