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Routes in Violator Buttress

M T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tresspassers Will Be Violated T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Violated T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Violator Varation aka Violator, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, 100 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Ross Swanson & George Bracksieck
Page Views: 68 total · 9/month
Shared By: Ross Swanson on Feb 4, 2018
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Burned out house with a boarded up shack. Details

Description

P1. Climb the east face through broken rock and ledges, pass an overhang on the right side and through a slot, and set belay at top of the spire.

P2. Downclimb to gain the wall behind the top of the spire. Traverse left following a crack until below vertical crack which leads to the top. Set good pro at bottom & middle of crack, and shoot for the top through a runout upper section. With a cleaning tool, you may be able to get more pro in this crack.

Location

On west face of Violator Buttress to east of a shack, find a nice looking, short crack on a slab just below the summit.

Protection

A standard rack.

Photos

This climbs the west face of Violator Buttress. Our second pitch followed a thin crack that is visible high on the upper left of the west face. It ends on the very summit of the Violator Buttress. Apr 21, 2018

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