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Routes in Violator Buttress

M T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tresspassers Will Be Violated T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Violated T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Violator Varation, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 50 total · 19/month
Shared By: Ross Swanson on Feb 4, 2018
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Burned out house with a boarded up shack. Details

Description

This is from a TR ascent.

Climb a crack past the first overhang. A huge guano mound is easy bypassed to reach the second overhang which widens for 4.5 and the crux. Clip a bolt on the right undercling bulge. Walking your feet up as high as possible, shoot for a jug high on the left.

Save a yellow/red Camalot for a horizontal, then face climb (5.9) slab clipping another (1/4") bolt.

Location

It is in the center of the cliff on the South face and goes up a crack through two overhangs, ending on a slab near the top.

Protection

A standard rack, a #4.5 Camalot at the crux on the upper overhang, and a red/yellow Camalot at an upper horizontal. There are 2 bolts (1/4 inch). You will need a 70m rope to rap, or do a scary downclimb off the back side.

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