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Routes in Violator Buttress

M T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tresspassers Will Be Violated T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Violated T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Violator Varation aka Violator, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 66 total · 12/month
Shared By: Ross Swanson on Feb 4, 2018
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Burned out house with a boarded up shack. Details

Description

We belayed at the base of a gully scrambling to the beginning of a crack 30 feet up. The action starts immediately with friendly right foot, small ledge halfway. We continued up to the end of the crack instead of traversing left, unlike description in Gillett's, so we added a variation to the route name.

Location

It is on the obvious cliff downstream from a shack. On the east face, find a hand crack halfway up the gully with orange lichen at the start.

Protection

A small standard rack plus #3, #3.5, #4, & #4.5 Camalots.

Photos

This is named "Violator" in Gillett. It is a right-angling crack that begins partway up the boulder-choked gully that defines the east face of Violator Buttress. Apr 21, 2018

More About The Violator Varation aka Violator

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