Type: Trad, Mixed, 350 ft, 2 pitches, Grade III
FA: Adam Dailey, Dave Rone Jan '18
Page Views: 135 total · 8/month
Shared By: Dave Rone on Jan 29, 2018
Admins: Dave Rone

You & This Route


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Description

When you think a route might go in one direction, but it doesn't, and it's totally awesome! Adam gets the credit for us going up and sniffing this one out. Where the ice ended, he envisioned traversing left under some blocky roofs to find a way up. But there was this beautiful crack directly above, and it took us all the way to the top!

P1: M6 65m Climb thin and intermittent ice at the left margin of where Mise en Sense forms.
P2: M8 35m Climb up left of the tree to gain the crack, then climb through the overhang into a slot. A couple moves up the slot, step out of it to the left and up (crux) to a blocky ledge. Work back to the crack and follow it to the top. The crack is parallel-sided and you'll enjoy having extra C4 2's and 3's.

Location

Les Incompetent is 5m left of Mise en Sense, and about 20m to the right of Chucky's Revenge. Top rappel from a tree, lower rappel from a v-thread.

Protection

Screws, draws, set of stoppers and C3's, double set C4's + a 3rd #2 and #3.

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