Type: Trad, Ice, 400 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 240 total · 6/month
Shared By: Dave Rone on Mar 6, 2016
Admins: Dave Rone

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Like the other routes on McRae, Nanibijou hasn't been forming every year, so get it when you can!
P1, WI4: Climb thin, variable ice for about 40' to a short vertical step through a rock band, and hopefully thicker ice. Continue up steep ice to a bolted station on the right. DO NOT continue higher and belay from the alcove, as you will get pounded by ice coming off P2.
P2, WI5: Move up and right from the belay and climb a variety of ice features, sometimes awkward, in an occasionally tight chimney. Work through steep mushrooms and umbrellas at the top to find the tree anchor. VARIATION to P2 goes left from the belay and climbs the left side of the chimney. This rarely done variation usually involves insecure mixed climbing.


About 100 meters left of Child's Play.


Screws for pro, bolted belay/rappel anchor at the top of pitch 1, tree anchor at the top of the route.