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Routes in Poke-O-Moonshine
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"Beaver Wall" T WI3-4 |
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Betty Beaver's T WI2-3 |
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Boyer's Route T M8+ |
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Bushido T,TR WI5 |
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Christmas Gully (Upper Area Start) T WI3+ |
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Dark Lord T WI5+ |
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Discord T WI4+ |
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Forbidden Wall WI4 |
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Get a Job T WI5 M6 |
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Goat's Foot WI4-5 |
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Hidden Pique WI4 |
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Hold the Mayo T M7 |
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Horn of the Ram T WI4- |
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Italian Traverse, The T WI4 M3 PG13 |
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Katherine WI5 M8 |
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Midlife Crisis T WI5+ |
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Neurosis WI4- |
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Positive Thinking WI5- |
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Premature Birth WI5 M6 |
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Run For Your Life WI4- |
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Storm Warnings T WI5- M5+ |
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Twin Towers WI4+ |
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Waterfall, The T WI5- |
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| Type: | Trad, Ice, 200 ft (61 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,539 total · 18/month |
| Shared By: | Robert Hall on Jan 22, 2018 |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Jim Lawyer |
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Access Issue: Follow trail from old state campground
Details
The adjacent private landowners have been having issues with climbers crossing their property. Please approach from the old campground and follow the existing trail to avoid crossing any private property. Do not hike straight up to the cliff, even if you have to park on the road. Access Fund worked with local climbers to order and install signs along the private property boundaries. Please respect these signs and our neighbors.
Description
Not so much a "Gully" as a huge inside corner with amazing flows that come down on your right as you climb. Very "mountaineering-ish" and well worth the slight extra walk. While the climb is above the top of the "descent gully/chimney" it is nowhere near the climb to the "Upper Tier".
Approach - Take the path to the waterfall and ascend the "descent gully/chimney" (some may wish a belay at the top of this, depending on conditions and level of experience). At the top of the chimney, head up and slightly right through the woods 5-10 minutes to some steep rock and Christmas gully.
P1 - The ice crux is the first 20 feet, although in less full conditions snow-on-rock might be encountered near the top. (The pitch could easily be split by belaying at the huge pine tree ledge.)
Descent - There is a rap station on a tree near the top, but it's rather cramped. We continued to the trees and then made two raps with a single 70m rope starting off a tree on climber's left [skier's right] and several feet down. Both raps had rope left over, so I'd think a single 60m should work.
Approach - Take the path to the waterfall and ascend the "descent gully/chimney" (some may wish a belay at the top of this, depending on conditions and level of experience). At the top of the chimney, head up and slightly right through the woods 5-10 minutes to some steep rock and Christmas gully.
P1 - The ice crux is the first 20 feet, although in less full conditions snow-on-rock might be encountered near the top. (The pitch could easily be split by belaying at the huge pine tree ledge.)
Descent - There is a rap station on a tree near the top, but it's rather cramped. We continued to the trees and then made two raps with a single 70m rope starting off a tree on climber's left [skier's right] and several feet down. Both raps had rope left over, so I'd think a single 60m should work.
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