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Routes in Poke-O-Moonshine

Bushido T,TR WI4+
Christmas Gully (Upper Area Start) T WI3+
Dark Lord T WI6
Discord T WI4+
Hidden Pique WI4
Horn of the Ram T WI4-
Midlife Crisis T WI5+
Neurosis WI4-
Positive Thinking WI5-
Waterfall, The T WI4-5
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Type: Trad, Ice, 200 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 115 total · 13/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Jan 22, 2018
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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Access Issue: Follow trail from old state campground Details

Description

Not so much a "Gully" as a huge inside corner with amazing flows that come down on your right as you climb. Very "mountaineering-ish" and well worth the slight extra walk. While the climb is above the top of the "descent gully/chimney" it is nowhere near the climb to the "Upper Tier".

Approach - Take the path to the waterfall and ascend the "descent gully/chimney" (some may wish a belay at the top of this, depending on conditions and level of experience). At the top of the chimney, head up and slightly right through the woods 5-10 minutes to some steep rock and Christmas gully.

P1 - The ice crux is the first 20 feet, although in less full conditions snow-on-rock might be encountered near the top. (The pitch could easily be split by belaying at the huge pine tree ledge.)

Descent - There is a rap station on a tree near the top, but it's rather cramped. We continued to the trees and then made two raps with a single 70m rope starting off a tree on climber's left [skier's right] and several feet down. Both raps had rope left over, so I'd think a single 60m should work.

Protection

Usual ice gear.

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