Type: Sport, TR, 50 ft
FA: Danny VunCannon
Page Views: 574 total · 51/month
Shared By: Jordan Angus Gay on Jan 7, 2018
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


3 Opinions

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Description

This is the far left bolt line that starts from the ledge above Thin To Win and left of Vegomatic. There is a bolted anchor on this ledge, but it's not necessary as the ledge is huge.

The crux is pulling a little roof and getting established on the face at the first bolt. Depending on your endurance, it’s possible to clip the second bolt mid-roof pull and make it a little safer. After that it is gym bolted 5.6 jug climbing. You can move left out onto the arete at times, or stay direct on the face, just watch for a few friable holds. The climbing is good enough, but the position and view are what make this route worth doing, especially if the other Parking Lot climbs are taken.

It's possible to scramble up onto this ledge from way left (watch for briars and broken glass).

Location

Parking Lot

Protection

6-7 bolts, bolted anchors

Photos

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Danny VunCannon
Troy NC
Danny VunCannon   Troy NC
FA by Danny VunCannon/ We called this route, Everyone is watching! Simply because it was close to parking lot. Others times we called it Watch your head.... Hope this helps
Danny V Sep 20, 2018
Danny VunCannon
Troy NC
Danny VunCannon   Troy NC
We did some serious climbing at Pilot, ST and Moores during the early 90's . Many climbs we TR climbed never named or gave much thought afterwards. Just wanted to climb everything in the park. Those days you could have the park to yourself most days and rarely see another rope on the crag. My how things have changed. Good climbing and God bless.
PS Still climb at Pilot....now days just mind my business. Sep 20, 2018
Jordan Angus Gay
North Carolina
  5.7
Jordan Angus Gay   North Carolina
  5.7
Thanks for the info Danny, I've updated the route description. Sep 20, 2018 · Temporary Report
Shane Rosanbalm
Chapel Hill, NC
  5.7+
Shane Rosanbalm   Chapel Hill, NC
  5.7+
Agree with the friable holds comment in the description. There aren't too many, but you do need to keep an eye out, especially towards the top.

-- Beta --
Moving past the first bolt was the crux of this route for me. If you're 5'10" or shorter and stay in line with the first bolt, it's a gymnastic roof pull. There's an obvious hold to aim for, and your bolt is high enough that you're basically on TR while doing the move so it's "safe", but I had to do a committing dead point move to reach said hold. It was a very fun move, but definitely not your typical 5.7 move. Nov 19, 2018
Jordan Angus Gay
North Carolina
  5.7
Jordan Angus Gay   North Carolina
  5.7
I climbed this the morning of 11/18/18 and the second bolt was very loose. Not just the hanger, but the bolt itself is loose. I was able to hand tighten it and just kept climbing. I didn't have a wrench nor do I have the proper knowledge of what torque specs are appropriate for these bolts, but this bolt should not be trusted until it is properly assessed, treat it as soloing until the 3rd bolt. Nov 19, 2018