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Routes in Parking Lot

Chicken Bone T,S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fat Boy 5.11 TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Pilot Error aka Right Chicken Bone S,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Thin to Win S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Vegomatic T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, TR, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,875 total, 16/month
Shared By: Chuck Parks on Feb 4, 2008
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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Description

Climb the mellow corner/crack to a steep finish onto the big ledge. Bolts below the ledge can be used to set up short, beginner topropes. But for full value, continue up the face on the left side of the crack to the top.

Location

Starts in a corner/chimney toward the left end of the wall. Look for bolted anchors just below a large ledge about 40 feet up.

Protection

standard rack, bolted anchors at the very top and below the large ledge

Photos

Max Royal
Boone, NC
 
Max Royal   Boone, NC
 
I led this when I first started placing gear and was a good beginner lead. Good placements, huge holds, and solid anchors.
This being said, this route is known to spit out gear should a climber take a lead fall. Take a look inside the AAC 2017 Climbing Accidents Journal; I think that climber only placed one piece, but it still goes to show that Pilot rock is a bit precarious in places. Nov 15, 2017
Vince Buffalini
Las Vegas, Nevada
  5.7+
Vince Buffalini   Las Vegas, Nevada
  5.7+
Great pro throughout, as well as easy placements from stem positions make this a mellow trad lead. A pink tri-cam in the pocket towards the edge of the roof protects the crux move swimmingly. Mar 25, 2015
dave Hause
carrboro, nc
  5.7+
dave Hause   carrboro, nc
  5.7+
The rock on this route is choss, avoid leading this route. Jun 3, 2013
Sarah Wolfe
Eugene, OR
Sarah Wolfe   Eugene, OR
I thought this was a fun route. I led it all the way to the top, past the anchors just below the ledge. It's a little easier the second half, though the rock is a little looser. Not sure it's recommended in terms of safety. Mar 4, 2012
Joshua McDaniel
Johnson City, TN
Joshua McDaniel   Johnson City, TN
Not a bad route, it climbs better than it looks. I've lead it a couple times and I think the gear is OK on it. Dec 5, 2011