Chaminé Idalício

Chaminé Idalício is located on the south side of the Prateleiras, in the upper part of the Itatiaia National Park, between the states of Rio de Janeiro, São Paulo and Minas Gerais, in the Mantiqueira mountain range.
Leaving Rio de Janeiro, access to the upper part of the park is through BR 354, entering BR 116 (Rodovia Presidente Dutra), just after the border between the states of Rio de Janeiro and São Paulo, and heading in the direction of the cities of Itamonte, São Lourenço and Caxambu.
Following 26 kilometers (about 30 minutes) by BR 354, before the city of Itamonte, is the Garganta do Registro. At this point you need to access the road to the upper part of the park, which is on the right of the road, so that it climbs towards Itamonte. The road is dirt and winding, which follows for about 13 kilometers to the entrance of the park (Posto Marcão), where you need to identify yourself and then proceed to the Rebolças shelter for another 3 kilometers.
The Rebolças shelter trail to the Shelves is very crowded and relatively easy. The entire route is approximately 3 kilometers, which takes about an hour to walk to its base.
The base of the Chimney Idalicio is on the south face and is easily located, since there is a plate fixed in the rock and the first meters of the track follows a negative cleft with many staples in sequence.
The track is relatively short, has four rope strings, where the chimney technique predominates. Its first thread is followed by a stapled slot, where it is possible to make a fixed artificial, but at the end there is a compulsory free throw to the double stop. That bid is a half-body slit, quoted in third degree, but it's not that simple.
The second one is short and goes in a chimney to a simple stop, after a block is trapped in the chimney.
The third strand is longer and goes inside the Shelves, following an easy and natural path, always using the chimney technique to a simple stop very close to the summit.
The fourth and last row starts with a short chimney throw and then follows an easy ramp, then make a bid up to the summit.
The best descent option is the normal south face, which is practically a hike, with some easy climbing.
Difficulty: 3 IIIsup E3 D1 150m
Conquerors: Carlos Carrozinho, Etzel Von Stokert and Giuseppe Pelegrini
Year of Conquest: 1964

Parque Itatiaia

pro: bolts
anchors at top