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Routes in Itatiaia National Park

Carnaval crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chaminé Idalício T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A0 R
Funcionaria Solange - Prateleiras T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Elevation: 6,000 ft
GPS: -22.477, -44.572 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 1,151 total · 15/month
Shared By: Matt Othmer on Apr 7, 2012
Admins: Tony Yeary, Raiden
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Welcome to the high altitude climbing of Brasil!!! In Itatiaia you can find 6000...foot...peaks to play on all day long!

Itatiaia National Park lies between Rio and Sao Paulo along the main highway that connects the two urban hubs in Brasil. There are two parts to the park with two distinct entrances, the higher and the lower. Although there is climbing in the lower area of the park, the high altitude part is the more beautiful area and has the bulk of the climbing. The rock is granite and is extremely coarse. This is one of the better places in the region to find splitter cracks, and climbing is still being developed. If you are traveling through the area it is very much worth your while to spend a few days in Itatiaia climbing and exploring. You can climb here all year around, but if there are storms in the area you have to be aware of lightning danger.

There are three main areas in the higher part of the park— a small but good vertical sport crag called Couto, a small but equally good sport and crack climbing crag called Prateleiras, and Agulhas Negras the eighth highest summit in Brasil and a big granite peak with many moderate routes and hikes to its several summits.

The higher part of the park has a camping refuge (called ‘abrigo’ in Portuguese), that as of 2011 was free of charge. There were plans to do some modifications on it, however, so things might have changed. One of the main rangers in the park, named Luis, is a big climber, and can give you plenty of info if you run into him. Ask the guards if he is around and they might be able to help.

There are two guidebooks to the area. The newer one is small but functional and is called Planalto do Itatiaia by Eliseo Frechou and Felipe Guimaraes. I think there is work in progress on a third, better, guide. Ask around at the climbing shops in Rio or SP to see if they have a guide available.

Getting There

The town of Itatiaia is in the western tip of Rio de Janeiro state and lies on the Rodovia Presidente Dutra, the main highway between Rio and Sao Paulo. The access road to the higher part of the park is a few km west of town, on route 354. To get to the higher part of the park you really need a car. You can catch a bus from either Rio or Sao Paulo that will drop you at the highway exit to route 354, but you are still nowhere close to the entrance.

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Belo Horizonte, MG - BRAZIL
Frederico   Belo Horizonte, MG - BRAZIL
It's worth mentioning that there are also some climbing areas outside the National Park of Itatiaia. For sport climbing, look for "BPO - Bosque das Paredes Ocultas", with sport lines from 5.9 to 5.13.

For trad/multi-pitches, there a few climbs in Picu -- approach is tough (1h hike uphill) but the views from the top are great. The classic line there is easy (mostly 5.6 w/ a well protected 5.9 crux) but there are some harder trad there as well. Jan 26, 2015

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