Type: Trad, Grade III
FA: Jim Beyer - solo
Page Views: 518 total · 23/month
Shared By: Jim Beyer on Dec 15, 2017
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Rockfall danger higher than usual on Glacier Point Apron Details
Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

P1) Climb or 3rd class to the top of the Goblet. P2) 160' - .9+ - 7 bolts -Start from the R side of the long ledge on top of the Goblet next to an old 1/4" bolt. Climb 10' up L facing corner then move L to small R facing corner. Clip bolt above this R facing corner, step R and high step(.9/.9+) to 2nd bolt. Go up(.9)past 3 more bolts then angle R to bolt below small roof. Step R and climb over R side of roof(.9) to 7th bolt then up to 2 bolt anchor on ledge just R of chimney. This is one of the best,sustained .9 pitches of slab edgeing anywhere. P3) 180' - .10b - 9 bolts + 3 fixed nuts - Climb to 2nd bolt above belay and mantle 2 knobs. Go up knobs to blank L facing corner to 5th bolt on ledge. Climb crack/seam(10a/b) above (micro nuts, small nuts, small cams + 4" cam) to bolt. Step R under roof (1/4" cam) then big step R (.10b/a) above roof and up knobs to 8th bolt on shelf. Traverse 5' R then up to tiny R facing flake (nut) the up and L (.9) to ledge with bolt. Climb above bolt(.8) to higher ledge w/bolts. Super Classic sustained pitch. P4) 110' - .10a/b - 5 bolts + fixed peg - Clip 1st bolt just 4' from belay- then (.9) up to ledge. Go up R (cam) and traverse L on ledge to R facing flake (1 1/2" to 3" cams). Go up past 4 bolts (.10a/b) to belay stance w/2 bolts. P5) 120' - .10b - 3 bolts + f.p. - Climb long L facing flake(.9) then up(.8) to ledge. Go R to bolt then traverse R(ez) to 2nd bolt. 4' of 5.10 friction above this bolt to ez knobs and 3rd bolt. Traverse R to Patio Pinnacle. Climb L side to 3 bolts on top. This is probably the easiest pitch but it does have the hardest moves. Every pitch on this Super Classic modern route (2017) is well protected with maximum runouts of 10' to 15' on 5.8 or harder. This is the only well protected route on Patio Pinnacle that I know of. It's also the only route on Patio that you don't need a hammer and pegs.

Protection

1 each cam 1/4" to 4" + 2 each micro nut to 3/16" + 1 each small nut to 1/4"

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