Type: Trad, Sport, 4000 ft, 20 pitches, Grade V
FA: Lou Renner and Matt Brooks 10/95
Page Views: 6,216 total · 58/month
Shared By: Jacek Czyz on Feb 25, 2010
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Rockfall danger higher than usual on Glacier Point Apron Details
Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

One of the only two routes gain to the top of Glacier Point by Glacier Point Apron. The only for mortal one. Take 8 pitches of Goodrich Pinnacle Right Side and another 8 to The Oasis. First climbed by Lou Renner and Matt Brooks 10/95 as 41 pitches grade 6 challenge. Standard rack as Goodrich Pinnacle plus few extra quickdraw. First crux 10d on 21 pitch for me was really hard with some pack and possible 10b A0. The second crux (whole block of 7-8 pitches) we bypass by new variation on the right.
Definitely must light in one day.

Trip Report from second ascent
stanford.edu/~clint/yos/gal…

Topo from the same site
stanford.edu/~clint/yos/gal…

Location

Take 8 pitches of Goodrich Pinnacle Right Side and another 8 to The Oasis.

Protection

Standard rack as Goodrich Pinnacle plus few extra quickdraw. Some runouts max 5.9

Photos

Jacek Czyz
Chicago, Summit CO; PL
  5.11b
Jacek Czyz   Chicago, Summit CO; PL
  5.11b
Me and Jacek Krawczyk climbed this route in about 20 pitches in 4 blocks with some simul climb easy section and stretching 60-meter rope few times. Take us less then 10 h at the 2003 fall. The leader climb OS above The Oasis.

Above The Ramp last quarter of the route we climb in 3-4 pitches as new variation. No bolts or iron. Small and medium cams & stopers. From the Ramp go up and easy traverse right under the slab to the belay tree on the right side of the slab. 2-nd pitch traverse left to shallow slaby chute/gully (crux 5.10/11a) using 2-3 incredible, hidden and bomber pockets/slots for pro every 15 or 20 feet and traverse few yards to left to belay ledge. Above we coiled our rope, move up class 2-3 huge slab. Last pitch of our var forces some final steep wall starting chimney/dihedral from right and traversing above overhang to left (5.9). Feb 25, 2010
Josh Higgins
San Diego, CA
  5.11b PG13
Josh Higgins   San Diego, CA
  5.11b PG13
Roberto and I did the route last fall. It's a pretty amazing route, with better climbing than I expected. The first ascentionists did a great job, although it could use a bolt or two around pitches 18-20 if I remember right both for protection and to tell you which way the route goes. For a fun trip report at pullharder.org click HERE Mar 1, 2012
Nitish Nag  
 
Route Topo Based on Our climbing experience is below to reflect accuracy of navigation as of September 2018.
drive.google.com/open?id=1o…

Please bring a wire brush, small trowel, and any other light gardening tools to clean up the few pitches that need it. You will help establish this as a modern classic!

A couple bolts in the right places to help with routefinding and risk would make this much more amenable to more ascents / cleaning up.

Post from trip here:
instagram.com/p/Bnzr-5NBSIY/ Sep 17, 2018