Unicorn

A fun mixed route that is relatively close to the road and is well protected. As with many mixed routes, it can vary greatly from year to year. Sometimes you can catch it fat so the first pitch, which usually requires rock gear, is all ice and requires nothing but screws. The description that follows is from the FA account.

P1: 40m, M7-. Follow thin ice to an overhanging corner, pull up left onto a rock step, then follow steep ice to a 2-bolt belay on the left side of a comfortable ledge.
P2: 37m, M7-. Dry tool up and right past 7 bolts to a steep ice curtain, then easy ice to the top. Belay from screws and or v-thread.

Unicorn starts 10m left of Kitty Hawk. To reach the climb, head straight for it through the woods. Once through the woods, locate the gully leading to the base of the ice. The gully, which is initially wide (we chose the right bank to ascend), quickly narrows and fills with WI2-3 ice steps. When we did it, the icy sections was filled with powdery waist deep snow. In lean snow conditions it may be necessary to pitch it out.

The base of these routes can be crowded, and a high hazard zone for falling ice if there are climbers above on either route. You SHOULD NOT begin climbing either of these routes until parties ahead of you are down. You need to get up earlier next time!

A standard mixed rack: set of stoppers, C3’s, and C4’s to #3, as well as draws for bolts. Two-rope rappel from a v-thread at the top.