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Routes in AMC Wall

Concord, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cross Country S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Encore, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Funk In the Trunk S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Gremlin S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hornet, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Javelin, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Jerry Was A Race Car Driver S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Matador, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Pacer, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rambler S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Rebel Machine, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Spirit, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Watt Rod S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Mike Cronin
Page Views: 54 total · 5/month
Shared By: BBQ on Nov 28, 2017
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description

Shares same overhung start (right hand jug to left hand gastone to super-good undercling) as The Pacer and Cross-Country. Gain a tenacious undercling rest and clip the third bolt. Those who can't do the super-awesome, left-trending cross-over move into The Pacer can head straight up into the black rock making moves on good holds to the same set of anchors that this climb shares with The Pacer.

Buyer beware! How much fun you might have on this route is up for debate, because, there is an old-school catch-22. According to the New Testament of Cronin, those who wander too far the right -and end up using the cracky flake on Cross-Country- must downgrade their onsight to 5.11 minus...and then trade their chalk bag in for a bib...because, apparently, using this sidepull flake/crack is for babies. Real men, and real women, grab that bull by the horns and hump it into submission. Do it right, or don't do it at all. Your choice.

Location

Look for the obvious crack/flake system on the left-hand side of the bigger of the two AMC walls. Feel free to start on the pile of rocks and head straight up vs. going left for The Pacer or right for Cross-Country at bolt #3.

Protection

Bring 8 quickdraws. Expect closed anchors.

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