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Early Access
Routes in West Ironing Board
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Cave Exit T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Crescent T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R |
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Crescent Variation T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X |
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Dolmen, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X |
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Green Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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I Lichen Chimneys T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R |
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I Lichen Offwidths T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a R |
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Marine Life T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Pine Tree Pitch T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Seams Like a Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Smoother T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X |
| Type: | Trad, 180 ft (55 m) |
| GPS: | 39.9864, -105.2953 |
| FA: | George Bracksieck and Jim Desrosiers |
| Page Views: | 802 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | George Bracksieck on Nov 21, 2017 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures
Details
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
Access Issue: Raptor nesting lifted July 26, 2023
Details
bouldercolorado.gov/service…: lifted 7/26/23: Third Flatiron, including Queen Anne’s Head, W.C Fields Pinnacle, 1911 Gully and the Ghetto, the East Bench & West Bench, the East & West Ironing Boards, The Fin, Green Thumb and Jaws.
Update from the Flatirons Climbing Council July 2021: due to late nesting of peregrine falcons this year (2021), this area is closed until ~Aug. 12, 2021.
Information on OSMP wildlife closures, which help to protect sensitive habitats, can be viewed at:
bouldercolorado.gov/service…
maps.bouldercolorado.gov/wi…
The following crags are closed 1 February to 31 July:
First Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Second Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Flatiron
Queen Anne's Head
WC Fields Pinnacle
The Ghetto
East Ironing Board
West Ironing Board
The Fin
Green Thumb
Jaws
Updated details may be found here.
osmpwildlifeclosures.org.
Description
Yesterday, I started up the seam, not optimistic about finding pro. With cleaning, I found placements for small Tricams (two pinks, a red, a blue), a #3 C4, a yellow C3, and doubles of #0.4 and 0.5. When the seam ended, I placed a red C3 and a yellow Alien in a horizontal. I continued, unprotected for 40 feet, up the steepening slab. Eventually reaching a good horizontal, I cammed a pink Tricam (wishing I had another 0.4 Camalot) and traversed left to the top of the chimney. For the belay, I placed a bombproof #0.75 about 10 feet west.
We left a sling and rapped down the southern of the two short, overhanging chimneys directly to the west. Once we were on the ground, our rap route looked downclimbable. Once on the ground, we made the mistake of descending west and south, eventually down the flood-ravaged gulch. Going north and up, around the north end of the Ironing Boards would be better.
Location
This is the thin seam/crack that lies between I Lichen Chimneys and I Lichen Offwidths. It is obvious in the pic posted under each of those routes.
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